PS. Be aware if you modify the valve plate for idle pressure, keep red lights at a minimum. You don't want to do that in a TC in hot climates or lot of stop and go city. The oil injectors will cook the oil.
Are you taking issue with replacing the OEM spring behind the pressure relief valve piston? If so, please explain because this has been done a gazillion times and, to the best of my knowledge, no one has "cooked" the oil. No need to scare the OP about a modification that will increase idle oil pressure if that is the objective.
I completely agree with the cardboard templates. Been doing that for decades. Also as someone else mentioned, make sure all threads are clean, even if you have to chase them. I squirt a little brake-clean in the holes and blow them out with compressed air. I have seen a chunk of aluminum "hydraulic'd" off because there was oil in the hole. Speaking of RTV, I used to split "limey" cases back in the late 60's and place them on a glass lapping table to make them perfectly flat, then reassembled them with RTV. Never leaked again.
For all those worrying about the cam tensioner shoes, here's what I do religiously. I change my oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles and cut the filter apart. I then spread the media out and look for anything suspicious. As well as thoroughly examining the oil. Here's a good example of what to look for.
Well, for my part, it's the old $$$ question. That, and whether or not the runout is excessive - I don't know. Not that it matters to this thread, but my job was crushed in March when the Wuhan flu hit. After months on unenjoyment, I now have a gig that pays a fraction of what I was making before, so I have to carefully budget every penny. Sure, all things being equal, I'd do the gear thing, and I had considered it before the work died, but.... I figure that with the miles I ride every season (which is never enough, right?), it'll be YEARS before I have to do this again.
Go hydrolic then.... Understand the fundage thing, I definitely didn't do the work but an indie did it for me at a reasonable price, it is a little noisy but piece of mind..
New will definitely give you piece of mind
REW, I hear you, but, alas, it is still all about the $$$. Hydraulic involves a new plate, etc., etc., and although that's a good median fix between shoes and gears, I can't do it. With my moderate skills with a wrench, simply replacing the shoes is about all I can handle besides taxing the budget. I surely did look into it, and believe me, I'd prefer to go there! Maybe in another several thousand miles. Gotta start saving my pennies now.
LOL! Well, THAT was exciting! The adventure continues! Good thing the air temps here are in the upper 30s....
Today I budgeted time in the afternoon to continue tearing down the TC, the task being to remove the gas tank. I wasn't as forward-looking this fall as perhaps I should have been. I filled the tank back then and ran in some gas preservative before moving into my cellar (the only work space I have). It made sense, at the time.
Doing my due diligence since then, I read that the tank should come off in order to get to the rocker boxes, breather valves, easier removal of the pushrods - which I'm going to reuse, and so on. I have the manual, so no sweat, right? Drain the tank, no sweat, riiiight?
I siphoned as much gas as I could into my handy gas can, sweet. Kinda stinky in a smallish space, but whatever. That done, I popped the feeder line below the shutoff, figuring I could get a little more out of it by opening the valve. This was so easy on my Beemer twins. OK, nothing came out, either on run or reserve. Good.
Now on to the crossover. Hehehehe. Reading again, I was warned(!!) that there would be a mess. I can handle this. Got a funnel and a line into the gas can, loosened the clamp under the left side, popped the line and WHOOSH! GAS! MORE GAS! The funnel helped, for sure, but the force of the flow spewed gas everywhere. Gas on the front of the engine! Gas on the floor! Gas on me!! I had turned off my furnace, so no sparks, open flame, I don't smoke. Ugh.
Right now I have left the lines dripping into the funnel that I tied under the tank. Gently rocking the bike a bit got a little more out. In a while I'm going to press fit the crossover back onto pipe under the tank to cut down the fumes. I have a fan in the cellar door blowing OUT, all the windows in my cape open and fans sucking the bad air out upstairs, and I'm done for the day. Hey, its starting to get COLD out there! Tomorrow, I will remove the speedo panel and loosen the bolts holding the tank on. I'll then put the funnel back in place and slowly, gently, tilt the tank forward with hopes that whatever gas may remain will flow out. I'll continue the process from there. A lesson learned besides the obvious for next time, heaven forbid, is to immediately plug one or the other crossover line with a finger and let the other side drain, and then reverse. That oughta work, eh? Experience!!
So, rocker box gaskets and all the time to pull the tank and them vs the cost of adjustable push rods? Did you figure the cost difference? Maybe I missed something, was there a need to replace rocker box gasket sets?
I didn't mention that I'm curious about the breathers as there is/was a fair amount of oil in and around the breather bolts into the air cleaner and the air cleaner itself. I figured, while I'm at it.... I appreciate your concern, though! That, and I'm learning more about the machine, which is another benefit of what I'm doing. I LIKE to learn this stuff. I was pretty conversant with my Beemer twins, so now I'm into and onto HD.
The adjustable rods were a consideration. If I can fix *this* stuff now, I hopefully shouldn't have to again very soon. I'm not going to put in different cams, even though I'll have the cam plate off. And yes, as I have mentioned, budget is a consideration. I'm trying to be preemptive at this point. If I spend a little more now, hopefully later on I won't end up spending more to go over stuff I should/could have done already. And of course, I could be totally, completely wrong. LOL - I'll be back to let y'all know!
01-09-2021, 12:12 PM
Hydraulic involves a new plate, etc., etc., and although that's a good median fix between shoes and gears, I can't do it. With my moderate skills with a wrench, simply replacing the shoes is about all I can handle besides taxing the budget. I surely did look into it, and believe me, I'd prefer to go there! Maybe in another several thousand miles. 
Gotta start saving my pennies now.
OK, nothing came out, either on run or reserve. Good. 
