Here are some pics. Just a little more to do. My next addition is a remote oil filter

 

That is a awsome looking trike, you put a lot work into that trike, I noticed the black around the mounting bolts for the mudflaps, did you use a metal stiffener in that area or just paint? Different front fenders also.
Looks good, I like.
Butch

 

Nice looking ride.

 

Very nice looking trike. You made it your own.

 

I did change out my rear calipers and master cylinder with the 2011's last spring so I'm set on that part. The 2011's did help with the braking a little. The main reason for changing out to PM stage-1 was to keep my P-brakes and hopefully eliminate the problems that the old setup had. There are times that it would be nice to have the P-brakes.
Butch

 

Thanks.
The black around the mudflap bolts is a carbon fiber vynil from 3M. It matches the inserts on the tank and Tour Pak. The front fender is a 21in Benchmark fender from Klockwerks. I had to go with a 21 in fender because the stock didn't fit the 21in wheel.

 

OK, help me I'm lost. When I stomp on my rear break, I can lock up the rear tires, If I press, I slow down. Never really had any disagreements with the rear breaks, seems like they are doing what they are supposed to do. I've been following this thread a while. Looking on the PM web site, it looks like the rear break retro is around $1500. From you and Young Mike, the master cylinder doesn't fit, PM doesn't have a fix now, and for a few dollars more you can BUY a different banjo that you have to bend a little and reuse the stock master cylender..... Whole lot of hay wiring, substituting, and reusing for 1500 bongo bucks. I'm sure the PM break setup is more responsive, but when some of the stuff doesn't fit, is the stuff that is left worth the $1500, or did I interpret the price wrong. Wife and I ride the hell out of our trikes and have no problem spending a lot of money on them.... can't take it with us, but sometimes I just don't understand.

 

The main reason for going with PM braking was they allowed me to seperate my parking brakes from the main brakes, there are times I want my p-brakes. We didn't know that we would have a problem with the master cylinder, the mastet cylinder that PM shows on they're web site for the Tri-Glide is the proper design, but that's not what we recieved. The price showing is not what was paid, 1200 with shipping was the dallor amount. I don't have to stomp on the brakes to lock up the PM brake when working right. I don't like stomping on things to make them work, I like having better control of my equipment. With forceing you either have it or don't have it.

Butch

 

In my case I had a couple reasons, one is I ride 2 up and pull a trailer 90% of the time so I figured 4 pistons should stop better than 1. The other reason is purely cosmetic, I have new PM rims which show a bunch more of the brake caliper so I figured I'd dress that area up a touch. At the time I didn't anticipate having to do any more than bolt and ride. I could use the PM master cylinder with the only issue being it may not last real long being blasted with the heat from the front exhaust pipe. So while PM is working through the issue I'll bolt on the stock master cylinder and wait.

I didn't pay full retail either, and the labors free. I picked mine up for $1187 shipped.

 

He maintains his TG and mine. In my opinion he is more qualified than any HD Tech. that I have run across plus his rates are reasonable, FREE.