Bad front wheel bearing part3
#1
Bad front wheel bearing part3
First off I need to apologize for some miss-imformation that I put out here.
I recieved the Timken bearings #W205pp the other day. Today I got the bearing puller/installer tool and pulled the first bearing. I compared the stock 9276 bearing to the new timken and found the timken bearing is wider then the stock HD bearing. Inner and outer diameters are the same.
Well I went back to my sources and the one website claiming that the bearing they carried was a replacement for the stock HD bearing is wrong. So I went to Timkens website and found product information on the w205pp bearing. Its still a single row bearing but its the same width as a double row bearing. It has extra space for prepacked lubricant
You can see the difference in the picture with the bearings side by side. The second picture is the spacer that goes between the bearings in your wheel to keep pressure and depth on the inner part of the race that spins the bearings. The scratch line on the right side of the spacer is the amount Im going cut off.
If my measurements are correct, after re-installing this with the new wider bearings the depth should be correct and no additional outer wheel spacers are needed.
This is trial and error for me. Im looking for a possible solution to this problem with the failing bearing for the front
Tom
I recieved the Timken bearings #W205pp the other day. Today I got the bearing puller/installer tool and pulled the first bearing. I compared the stock 9276 bearing to the new timken and found the timken bearing is wider then the stock HD bearing. Inner and outer diameters are the same.
Well I went back to my sources and the one website claiming that the bearing they carried was a replacement for the stock HD bearing is wrong. So I went to Timkens website and found product information on the w205pp bearing. Its still a single row bearing but its the same width as a double row bearing. It has extra space for prepacked lubricant
You can see the difference in the picture with the bearings side by side. The second picture is the spacer that goes between the bearings in your wheel to keep pressure and depth on the inner part of the race that spins the bearings. The scratch line on the right side of the spacer is the amount Im going cut off.
If my measurements are correct, after re-installing this with the new wider bearings the depth should be correct and no additional outer wheel spacers are needed.
This is trial and error for me. Im looking for a possible solution to this problem with the failing bearing for the front
Tom
#3
#5
I am getting the inner spacer cut tomorrow and hopefully the indy shop will call and tell me the narrower spacers are in from Drag Specialties.
#6
New bearing are installed in the wheel. Had the inner wheel spacer milled down 3/16" Both new wider bearings protrude about 1/32" out of the bearing cup on each side of the wheel. I got the spacers that go between the forks and the wheel from Drag Specialties today. I thought I had my measurements correct but ended up milling one spacer to narrow. Now waiting on another spacer to arrive to mill to the correct width.
Last edited by FLTR2008TRIKE; 02-02-2012 at 03:26 PM.
#7
I have attached a few pictures of my wheel with the new wider Timken bearing. The bearings are just about flush with the rotors on both sides. What I had to do, was to have the inner sleeve milled down to be slightly shorter.
I have 3 seperate inner sleeves #41900-08 each one was stock for comparison. All 3 were slightly different in length brand new. Also in the front wheel is a bearing spacer that is on the left side. This spacer is #43903-08 in my parts book. This spacer is only on the left side of your front wheel and has to stay in the wheel.
To keep the bearings spaced evenly and keep them as flush as possible to the out part of the wheel, the inner sleeve #41900-08 has to be cut down so you have about 3/16" of the sleeve sticks out past the inner spacer #43903-08 on the left side of the wheel.
After installing the new bearings I have been working on sizing the outer wheel spacers that go between the forks and wheel. So far I have one done and will have the second one milled down a little more tomorrow to finish.
I have 3 seperate inner sleeves #41900-08 each one was stock for comparison. All 3 were slightly different in length brand new. Also in the front wheel is a bearing spacer that is on the left side. This spacer is #43903-08 in my parts book. This spacer is only on the left side of your front wheel and has to stay in the wheel.
To keep the bearings spaced evenly and keep them as flush as possible to the out part of the wheel, the inner sleeve #41900-08 has to be cut down so you have about 3/16" of the sleeve sticks out past the inner spacer #43903-08 on the left side of the wheel.
After installing the new bearings I have been working on sizing the outer wheel spacers that go between the forks and wheel. So far I have one done and will have the second one milled down a little more tomorrow to finish.
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#9
I recently put Chrome wheels on my wife's 2012 Triglide. They were stock wheels chromed. Did an exchange with Surfcitychrome in Huntington Beach, CA. (nice guy to do business with and much cheaper than Shiny Willie who I found out is just a broker)
The stock front wheel bearings felt fine, but after doing some research and finding out HD's wheel bearings are made in China now along with their wheels and lord knows what else, I decided to try and find some American Made Bearing's. Found out most Bearing supply house's use China bearing's as well. Found some SKF's in Cleveland Ohio. Made in France.
Anyway, if anybody don't know and would like to know. The front wheel bearing's on the Triglide's as well as any non abs 08 and later touring bike. is 25X52X15 MM The bearing number is 6205-2RS you don't have to change any spacer's. The SKF number was 6205-2RS1 New bearing's went in without a problem.
The stock front wheel bearings felt fine, but after doing some research and finding out HD's wheel bearings are made in China now along with their wheels and lord knows what else, I decided to try and find some American Made Bearing's. Found out most Bearing supply house's use China bearing's as well. Found some SKF's in Cleveland Ohio. Made in France.
Anyway, if anybody don't know and would like to know. The front wheel bearing's on the Triglide's as well as any non abs 08 and later touring bike. is 25X52X15 MM The bearing number is 6205-2RS you don't have to change any spacer's. The SKF number was 6205-2RS1 New bearing's went in without a problem.
#10
I recently put Chrome wheels on my wife's 2012 Triglide. They were stock wheels chromed. Did an exchange with Surfcitychrome in Huntington Beach, CA. (nice guy to do business with and much cheaper than Shiny Willie who I found out is just a broker)
The stock front wheel bearings felt fine, but after doing some research and finding out HD's wheel bearings are made in China now along with their wheels and lord knows what else, I decided to try and find some American Made Bearing's. Found out most Bearing supply house's use China bearing's as well. Found some SKF's in Cleveland Ohio. Made in France.
Anyway, if anybody don't know and would like to know. The front wheel bearing's on the Triglide's as well as any non abs 08 and later touring bike. is 25X52X15 MM The bearing number is 6205-2RS you don't have to change any spacer's. The SKF number was 6205-2RS1 New bearing's went in without a problem.
The stock front wheel bearings felt fine, but after doing some research and finding out HD's wheel bearings are made in China now along with their wheels and lord knows what else, I decided to try and find some American Made Bearing's. Found out most Bearing supply house's use China bearing's as well. Found some SKF's in Cleveland Ohio. Made in France.
Anyway, if anybody don't know and would like to know. The front wheel bearing's on the Triglide's as well as any non abs 08 and later touring bike. is 25X52X15 MM The bearing number is 6205-2RS you don't have to change any spacer's. The SKF number was 6205-2RS1 New bearing's went in without a problem.
I think and this is just my opinion, any narrow single row bearing manufactured with the limited amount of grease that they all come with due to the space of the bearing assembly, will have to be checked after 10k miles because of the number of failures in this mileage range. This might ensure you wont have a bearing failure past 10k miles