While I was changing out the handlebars it was a lot easier to get the transmission cover off and properly retorqued with the exhaust removed. So, as long as the exhaust was removed I de-catted it. Went for a couple of short runs. About 50 miles yesterday and 100 today. Tried a blend of highway, side roads and city driving. I couldn't tell any difference in heat. It was fricken hot before and after the cat. The weather report came on while I was cruising and they didn't even bother to give the temperature, they just said "it's HOT, dam HOT and will be HOTTER tomorrow." The engine heat control never kicked in, but it never kicked in when the cat was still there. The engine cylinder heads were and are hotter than the heat coming off the cat. Maybe I'll notice some difference this winter when it gets down into the 70's. But for now, a lot of work for no tangible result. I have an oil temperature gauge ordered. I had a gauge on my 09 and it ran around 230 while moving and got up into the 260's in traffic. Hit as high as 280 a couple of times on 110+ degree days until I got moving again. My 11 feels no hotter, but I won't know for sure until the gauge is installed. I'm actually thinking one of those parade fans would do more good than spending money on a bigger oil cooler with a fan. The highest temperatures are in the heads. Has anyone tried the parade fan?

 

Removing the cat probably caused you to run leaner than before, hence even more heat.
Item 1, section 34 of the Harley Tax Code mandates a minimum of at least some type of tuner. I won't even get into the rest of the code for fear of ruining the rest of your afternoon.
David

 

+1 on the tuner, my 10 is way cooler since I've worked it over. I can remember when I first took delivery of it taking my IR temp gun and shooting the surface temp of my right calf and reading 140 degrees, that was toasty.

 

I have the Lenale parade fan but now you would be blowing hot air on your right leg at a crawl. At least the EITMS won't kick-in if that's your concern.

 

I've been the tuner route and they often cause as many problems as they are intended to solve. It seems the two most popular posts on the Harley forums is "how do I cool off my Harley" and "I put on a tuner to cool off my Harley and now it runs like crap." (The trim tabs are off, the woofer tables don't jive, etc., etc., etc.) At any rate, which one are you using and how is your fuel economy? I'm getting an average of 32 mpg. I certainty don't want it to go any lower as 32 is pretty dismal for a 70 horsepower 1100 pound vehicle.

One thing I should make clear. I'm not saying the cat removal didn't lower temps at the cat. I'm saying that it's so hot in Phoenix this time of year that there is no noticeable difference in felt temps while riding. The cat removal, obviously, does nothing for engine heat. After I took the tuner I had on my last bike off, (after the bike started running horribly on my trip to Yellowstone last year) it ran perfectly. This one runs very smoothly. After I get the oil temp gauge installed I may have to do something if the oil temps are inordinately high.

 

TTS Mastertune is a good tuner, no add on pieces to install and there are preloaded maps to choose from. Just need to have a laptop to work from and the connector that goes from your diagnostic connector under the left side cover to the laptop. You can save your stock map on your laptop and load up a new ECM program. Riding in 100+ degree temps my engine oil temps run around 210 on my 117". My average fuel mileage is 32-36 depending on where I get the gas

Mr Wizard here on HD Forum is very knowlegable about TTS and is very generous with helping advice to forum members here using the TTS Mastertune

I have Harley parade fan for those hot days when Im stuck in traffic. I wired mine with a relay and switch to turn it on and off manually. I didnt want to wait for the thermostat to kick the fan on.

Also I think the stock oil cooler for a trike is too small. I had the Harley oil on my trike when it started as a 103" and never was happy with it keeping the oil temps down

 

Unless the Trikes are different and I'm betting the motors are the same. So with that said, removing the cat is going to make it easier for the engine to get ride of the exhaust instead of having to push real hard to sift it through the honey comb that's the cat. As far as it running leaner afterwards, the O2 sensors will adjust the air just like it would if you put a set of slip-ons on it. Your only going to get it too lean if you screw with the air breather then your going to need to do something about it. I did it (removed the cat) a couple weeks ago and I'm glad I did. If you had to remove that honey comb mess you too would be wondering how the hell it ran at all trying to push exhaust thru all that.

 

Stealer Maps are lean, they don't want to add more fuel to the cat and ruin it as they don't know everyone takes them off. TTS but more importantly, you don't get the cool with just one step, gotta decat, tune, Parade Fan, Upgrade the oil cooler and to to the fan there also. Wrap the head pipes...

but a few on here say they ain't hot and all that is a waste of money! I figured I wasted 32 large in the beginning so what the hell! I have my imaginary heat problem fixed or the problem was just in my head and the mods were just therapeudic and fooled my right leg into thinking I'm running cooler. At any rate losing the cat is just the first step, ya gotta a few more to go...

I throw the right leg upon the footpeg when I hit the fan, you are right you put that heat right onto it if you can't get it up out of the way!

 

You guys know TUCCI is right. The ECM will return via Adaptive Learning but it has a limit. Some say 3-5% while others say 5-7%. It also takes over three tanks of gas to reach this "re-learn". The real question is, just how much adjustment is necessary when you fully remove the cat located within the collector chamber?

Also, there is more than just one type of heat. There is motor heat and exhaust heat that will effect the rider (as well as Arizona heat). The big collector on the stock pipe will radiate heat long after the bike is turned off and will cook that right leg. The motor heat, in normal riding conditions with a stock calibration, will be lean. Lean - hot. Just is what it is.

pettifogger1... Sounds like you had a bad tuner or a bad tune. There are several tuners out there that don't stay attached to the bike and you can control the process without spending a week's wages on the chance that someone with a dyno can actually tune to your riding style and give you a good tune. There are plenty of guys out there that can do a stand up job but it takes some research and good word of mouth to find one.

Hope you cool off soon...

-wiz

 

Some of the slap on and forget gizmo's do nothing more than throw fuel at it. A proper tune can either maintain or increase fuel mileage. I run the TTS and have had my tike tuned on a dyno, I very well could have done the complete tune via the V-tune feature myself if I had wanted to. My fuel mileage averages 33 - 35 mpg when I'm not hammering it on the freeway pulling my trailer. When pulling my trailer and riding 2 up running 75 mph I'll drop down to 25 - 26 mpg. I just took a trip with my wife into the Allegheny mountain areas of PA and while running 60 - 65 99% of the time in no higher than 5th gear pulling the trailer I was getting 30.5 mpg, without the trailer it would pop right back up into the 33 - 35 mpg range. I think with some more tuning I might be able to get that up a little bit more. After I take my trip to TN I may throw the lap top on it and do some V-Tunes and tweak things a touch. As others have said Mr Wizard is very knowledgeable about the TTS.