spent some time this morning researching availability of the 30 tooth pully. both HD and Andrews are out of stock til at least the end of april. does anyone know another alternative to these two?

 

After verifying 2345 against GPS, I ended up using 2487. At 70mph, the GPS will fluctuate between 69 and 70.

 

For Andrews 30T try J&P Cycles or Dennis Kirk Catolog. I got mine out of J&P Catolog some time ago.
Butch

 

I put the 2487 into mine with the Power Vision to verify and the speedo is really close to being spot on 69-70 with the GPS. Much closer than the 2462 that came stock on the bike.

 

As I mention earlyer, I was have problems with my rear brakes. I had filed a complaint with HD customer service, about weak and ineffective brakes. So when they install the 30T, HD will replace the rear brakes with the 2011 brake system, under warrenty. Surprized the hell out of me.

So it never hurts to file a complaint. I should everything done,as soon as the brake parts arrive and the service manager is looking for the 30T. Hopefully he find one thru a 3rd party company.

Robert

 

You lucked out and found someone at the MoCo who cared. My dad called about his brakes and they told him they were a wear item and not covered under waranty.

 

First of all I'm a new HD rider and new to the forum. I purchased my 2010 TG in June of 2010 but only have about 600 miles on it at this juncture due to rupturing a disk in July of 2010. Because of this it took me out of commission so I'm just getting back in the saddle for some very short rides to run through the gears.

Back to the issues, since I live in Northern CA, we get some pretty extreme summer heat temperatures ranging from the mid 90's into the 100's and I'm experiencing the same heat issues as it seems most everyone is. Thanks to many of the members from the forum I'm starting to formulate my plan of attack for mods to deal with it. On a recent ride a few miles down the road and back, my oil temp got to 280 degrees so when I go in for my 1000 mile service I'm planning to install the Jagg 10 row thermostat controlled oil cooler with fan, TTS, new header pipes without the cat and other recommended exhaust mods, Synthetic oils at first service, a parade fan (if still necessary), oil temp gauge in place of the air temp gauge, RJ's heat deflectors, lift and if I've got any funds left I may change to the 30T.

I've got a couple of question if anyone could give me some much needed advice.

1. I know this may be a dumb question but does the new oil cooler replace the stock oil cooler or does it work in conjunction with the stock cooler?
2. Is the thermostat necessary or would a toggle switch located near the temp gauge be a better alternative?
3. Do you recommend installing a parade fan if the oil cooler come with a fan and which one is recommended.
4. Most seem to recommend either the Jagg or Ultra Cool oil cooler but are there any other (better) oil coolers out there? I checked the Ultra Cool site and couldn't seem to find a cooler for the 2010 Tri Glide, only the 2011 which didn't seem to be available yet.
5. Any recommendations for a Cat'less header pip?
6. Does anyone know if Jagg makes a oil cooler bigger than the 10 row?
7. I know many of the posts indicated they changed their cams so knowing I would have to have someone install that mod, would you recommend doing it. Seems many have indicated their preference for the Woods TW-555 and I spoke with someone from their company who indicated they are coming out with a TW-777 version that's suppose to give 3-5 more hp over the 555.

One other problem I have really been fighting is being unable to close my trunk and having it fly open while driving. Used to have to slam it so hard and if it would close at all, I thought I was going to push it clear through. Well today I may have figured out what the issue is/was. Seems when I could get the thing closed, if I didn't lock it the darn thing would constantly fly open. I called the dealer on several occasion with no help until recently they indicated HD may have come out with new retrofit hardware for dealing with the problem. Well today when it happened again, I noticed I was having trouble getting it to lock and the push button wasn't coming back out far enough to let the mechanism lock. Used the key to pull it out and locked it for the ride back to the house. I took some tephlon silicone lubricant and sprayed some around the outside of the button, pushed it in and out several times and lo and behold, the thing worked perfectly. Makes me wonder if they left the lubrication step out of the manufacturing or assembly process. I guess time and use will be the ultimate judge on that one.

I'm open to suggestions from anyone may have pros or cons for my plans and would appreciate any feedback you can give.

Sorry for the long winded first time post.

 

1. The replacement oil cooler replaces the stock oil cooler.
2. Depending on the cooler or fan you choose is whether or not you need a thermostat, myself I like to control things so I'd go with a separate switch or tie it into the accessory switch.
3. I don't run a fan, I know others prefer the Lenale fan.
4. Myself I'd stay as far away from the Ultra Cool as possible, I don't think it works as advertised and they have leakage issues. You can go either the 10 row Jagg without fans or Jagg just came out with a 10 row that comes with fans. It depends on how much stop and go traffic and slow riding you do on whether fans are needed.
5. Either the Fulemoto Jackpot or the Fullsac Xpipe will get the job done, the choice is yours.
6. I've never seen a bigger Jagg cooler than the 10 row, one issue you have is the larger the cooler the more the pressure drop and also where to stash it all.
7. I can think of 2 cams that will get the job done, Woods TW555 or the Andrews 54. Both cams are real close to one and other. I wouldn't get hung up on waiting for some 777 cam, by the sound of it they may require valve springs to be changed. I know the TW555 and the Andrews 54 will bolt in.

I will say if funds become available the 30 tooth sprocket change is a huge upgrade, Harley Davidson should be tarred and feathered for producing the 09-10 with the 32 tooth sprockets. If your having issues with the trunk you may need to get your dealer involved. The button sticking was just what you found, lack of lubrication.

 

Having a 2010 myself, this is my plan
1. 30t sprocket ( done)
2. Full sac x pipe ( I like the fact they only have one set of 02 sensor bungs)
3. TTS tuner
4. Arlen Ness big sucker air cleaner

After these mods, it should run better and cooler...I'll evaluate then if an additional oil cooler is necessary. Also if cams are needed ( I don't think I'll do the cams).

I'll also run the stock mufflers and see if others are needed, have a set of SE mufflers if I need them.

WO 575 handlebars will be added....for comfort.

 

Thanks for the input on my heat related mods as I'm getting closer to having some of the work done. I'm currently getting an estimate for the mods and have asked them to prioritize them in order to spend my money on the upgrades that will make the most difference. Based on preliminary estimates, I sure wish I knew more about turning wrenches!

The service manager at the dealership I'm planning on using for the mods isn't familiar with the TTS tuner as they use the Thundermax. They indicated since they don't have a dyno for the TG's, whatever I decide to use will have to be an auto tuner. In reading the threads, it seems the majority of the TG owners prefer the TTS so not knowing anything about the thundermax, I'm hesitant to go with the dealers recommendation just because they aren't familiar with the TTS.

Anyone out there familiar with the Thundermax and any comparisons between it and the TTS tuner? I've been assuming the TTS is an auto tuner, is this correct

Also, they are recommending I don't do the Jagg 10 row with fan and think that with the exhaust mods, cam and tuner that those should pretty much take care of most of the heat problems.

I'd appreciate any feedback on this as I'm getting close to finalizing my plans for the upgrades.