The purpose of the locking tool is to lock the pulley to the frame. Using an impact with the tool would be fine if you have the 3/4" drive socket or It may be possible to get the nut off and back on with impact grade 1/2". If you use the impact without the locking tool just picture the beating everything between the nut and rear wheels is taking.

 

I will admit, I am the worst in the world for it, grabbing the air impact. I believe the idea is to maybe keep from buggering up the nut or shaft threads coming off and on and to keep from trashing something in the trans. Final torque sequence would seem important to me also to set that the 30T pulley back properly.

I opened up the Rhino and put an 03 Grizzley sheeve on it to open it up some, air impact all the way and got it to tight on the first try. Had to go back and torque it to spec in order to get it to work right. Not the first time. I hate to get to far away from the manual on my stuff, they wrote the torque spec for a reason and I don't know how to get the 30T back on to spec with an air impact.

 

Coupe, the final spec for the nut is in degrees of turn not actual torque spec. I think you can see the referance marks in one of M3,s pics. I dont have the manual with me but I think the nut is turned between 35 and 45 degrees more after initial torque of 30 foot pounds, You will have to check the book to be sure of the actual specs. The point is that it could possibly be done with an impact wrench , just use the locking tool also.

 

I am just looking at a procedure off the net, may not be right for this model. Have ordered the 2010 manual but have not received yet. This one calls for 100# initial torque, back it off and torque to 35# then you establish the marks that M3 did and tighten to the degree spec. Will try to post it.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04995.pdf

 

That is correct except for 1 thing. When you back it off it wants you to back it off 1 full turn then retorque to 35# and then tighten to between 30 and 45 degrees.

 

MSCOKO3, HEY JUST RED YOUR THREAD AND WAS AT THE SAME STAGE AS YOU BUT I WAS WAITING FOR MY BELT TO ARRIVE. I MADE MY OWN SPROCKET HOLDER BECAUSE IT'S ALWAYS A CHALLENGE TO MAKE MY OWN TOOLS. I'LL POST HOW MINE CLEARS THE SOCKET ON A 30 TOOTH SPROCKET. MY CLAMP THAT SITS ON THE INSIDE OF THE SPROCKET IS RADIUSED TO MATCH THE INSIDE RADIUS OF THE SPROCKET WHICH GIVES ME ENOUGH CLEARENCE I EVEN HAVE A THICKER MAINSHAFT SOCKET THAN THE STANDARD JIM'S AND STILL HAVE CLEARANCE FOR BOTH TOOLS.

 

Welcome to the group, Just wondering why you replaced the belt.

 

62.7356711 here!

#3....or anybody...I am too lazy to go back and read to see if you got this wrapped up, but I am curious about something. I had asked in another post for folks to check this, but we are all too old to remember.

I want somebody to check the "play" in the clutch basket after they torque the hub nut down and before they install the outer cover. I have been lead to believe that most of them will have some fore-n-aft play (wobble). Mine has a bit and I have 45,000 miles on it and nothing has exploded....yet. Some tech. on some other forum reported that 9 out of 10 would have this "play" and it was nothing to be concerned about, but I had never noticed it on any other clutch that I had apart...or at least did not try and see if they had any.

There is a lip just on the end of the hub that is tightened up against the nose (end of the threads) on the tranny main shaft and that is all it is torqued against. If there is any slop in the splines of the hub or the tranny shaft....this wobble will be present and is reported to me to be normal.

Anybody???

 

I'll try to remember and check it when I work on it the next time.

 

Getting close to having the project completed.

I squared up the rear axle housing and adjusted the belt tension.

I used dial calipers to measure each side of the axle housing at the pinch blocks to get it with in spec. If I remember right spec is .062, I'm with in .008 so I guess I'm pretty close.




To set the belt tension I used a tape measure hung off the top of the swing arm and a Harley belt tension tool to get it with in the 3/8 - 7/16.





I use a neat little Craftsman thread chase set to chase all my threads before assembly.





Before installing the inner primary I replaced the seal that runs on the transmission shaft, per the manual I put tape over the transmission shaft so the seal would not be damaged while installing the inner primary.




I also replaced the 5 bolts for the inner primary that have o-rings on them. I know some folks put a dab of silicone on and reuse the old ones, I decided to follow the manual and replace them, they also come with thread lock patch already applied.




If all goes well I'll have it about wrapped up tomorrow if I get some free time.