Did not mean to steal FP post but just trying to add to small component. Not referring to the color of an oil bath quench but the slight pebble finish. Also least anyone be confused all forgings start out with a melted steel pour. (hence casting) (Also NOT cast iron) Some are actually cast closer (adds cost) but saves on forging dies. Forging does add some strength to the steel but the finial actual hardness is put in by the heat treating process. (heating in an oven that does not have oxygen in it and then dipped in oil or water depending on type of steel.) Mild steel would need to be case harden (similar oven but a gas is added to introduce carbon in the top layer of the steel . This part is probably 4340 which does not need to be case harden since to name a few elements like nickel, chromium and molybdenum are introduced in the melted steel when it is poured. My guess is if Harley needed the forged word they did forge some attribute to it. Then the sprocket went through a lathe process to turn and bore it and then a mill for the sprocket teeth. The other part was bored and then the spline was broached. The spline part to prevent wear on the broach (very expensive tool) was only so hard. A finial harden process of the spline was done by just induction heating the spline area and an a water spray. If you look at an actual part you can see the blue look of the splines from the heat.

 

Might have been a smart move on this one boom, unless you already own the specialty tools. That's probably half of your installation cost right there. My only concern was getting it done right and a dealer warranty on the work. This one could eat you up if you have to keep taking it back on your dime. I have not asked but since this is not a model specific part they may not want to.

If I could find a good Indy that would warranty their work I would not get my hands dirty on this one!

 

I am proud of you Msocko. I would be doing same thing.

 

I was worried about cluttering up M3's thread also but Wiz is going to clean up the fluff when he does the sticky. I also sometimes will tell you how to build a clock when you ask me what time it is. An indepth metallurgical study of the parts though an area of interest for us might be dry and boring reading for most on the forum.

For most it's just if the OEM ain't working find out what caused it to fail and replace it with the good stuff! My guess is M3 will diagnose what caused the excessive wear and correct it before reassembly.

 

M3, You can safely remove some material from the tool using a file, mine was the HD SE tool. I have done this on mine (but i used my mill so it looked pretty)and also for a local indy here , his tool cane from Jims, the Georges tool is the same. So little needs to be removed its not a problem as far as strength is concerened. I have only used Andrews pulleys and didnt know if others were the same but it sounds like the clearance issue is the same. Was going to poke you for trying 1/2" drive but i did same on my first one.
Now I dont want to hear any more jokes about using a pipe wrench.

 

2 pics of my pulley tool after mod. . You can try any method to tighten the nut you choose but this works with the least strain on other componets. Ill say again that I have done three of these with this locking tool, the socket, and pipe wrench. I dont think you will find an easier way unless you pay to have it done.

 

We ended up going the same direction you did except we got medieval on it. I have to say the pipe wrench is the way to go unless someone makes a socket in 3/4" drive, then I have the animal for that job.

 

Back to work this afternoon trying to get the sprocket on. As icebite1 mentioned the sprocket locking tool needs some material removed so it will fit. His looks much prettier than ours, we let the inner caveman out and got down to business with a die grinder and a bench grinder.

Poor little critter will never be quite the same again..... But it fits. Pic of my dad doing the dirty deed.




The finished tool. One note.... While digging around the internet this morning I also found JP Cycle sells the sprocket locking tool for $62 which is cheaper than Georges Garage, Jims and Screamin Eagle. Had I known we would had to grind on it I would have bought the cheaper one from JP Cycle.



The modified tool worked like a charm, got the nut tightened to spec and the lock plate installed. To get the required 35 - 45 degrees required I used a 18" pipe wrench with a 2' cheater bar on it. The black lines in the picture are the starting point which was also marked on the socket and a mark for 35 & 45 degrees.




Will be a few days before I get more time to work on the trike because I have to start back to work tonight. The next step will be tightening the belt and squaring the rear end up within HD's specs.

 

I guess the sockets are all 1/2" drive now, they used to come 3/4".
The one i looked at that the HD service dept. had was 3/4" and 2x as heavy. I like the 1/2" better along with the pipe wrench.
You certainly did grind up your tool, imo its easier to take a little off the top. A note on the socket: it comes with a pilot bushing tha fits on the trans . shaft with the ID of the socket fitting over it and keeps that deep socket straight thus transfering your torque to the nut and not off to the side, I reccomend using it.

 

Or what we call in the south gettin honory with it, great job!

So we will need a new pulley clamp to get the 32T off and a FUBAR clamp to get the 30T back on...

Ok, so I lost my last job writting technical manuals....
this won't be in the sticky