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reach handle bars

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  #1  
Old 09-17-2010 | 09:20 PM
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oley55
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From: JAX Florida
Default reach handle bars

as per the 2011 catelog I ordered the clutch cable, lower/upper brakes lines to accomodate the installation of the H-D reach handle bars. Good and bad, I successfully installed the new reach handle bars with NONE of the as listed required parts in the catelog. with only a very minor rerouting of the clutch cable under the radio mounting bracket as opposed to through it I just installed the H-D OEM reach handle bars. now all I need to do is see if I can return the special ordered parts (as per the catelog) without paying the restocking fee.
 
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Old 09-17-2010 | 11:05 PM
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From: Blue Grass (KY)
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any chance you took pictures while installing them?
pics of the finished bars?
Need to do the same for mine...
 
  #3  
Old 09-21-2010 | 06:18 PM
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oley55
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Originally Posted by Casper
any chance you took pictures while installing them?
pics of the finished bars?
Need to do the same for mine...
I am sorry to say I did not take pics. not that it matters as I have yet to figure out the secret code for posting pics without the "your pic is too big" warning.

as others have posted it required a bit more disassembly than I anticipated.

1. romove outter fairing
2. remove radio (only four bolts but in a tight area and difficult to reinsatall) Pull radio back (towards front of bike) just a bit to clear the face and then lift straight up to get it out of the radio mounting brackets.
3. romove ingnition lock and fork cap.
4. remove clutch cable from clutch lever.
5. remove all handle bar stuff (clutch lever, brake lever, and swithch housings.
6. disconnect twist grip sensor connector wire in fairing.
7. feed twist grip sensor wires back to base of handle bars and work the twist grip out.
8. disconnect twist grip sensor connectors without breaking.
9. remove two top/front handle bar clamp bolts.
10. bend the crap out of the inner fairing under radio to reach lower/back two handle bar clamp bolts (best done in warm weather as I suspect it would have broken had the abs been cold)
11. cut a couple zip ties here and there to allow movement of clutch cable and master cylinder brake line.
12. pull clutch cable back through inner fairing and reoute it inside/through the left radio moont and back through the fairing.
13. route master clynder barke line around to front of or just right of neck bearing.
14. 12 and 13 just made everything long enough for full left/right deflection without any binding or pulling.
15. feed twist crip senor connector cable through new handle bars using silicone spray and sart reconnecting everything.
16. install new handle bar and tighten it down leaving 1/4-3/8" gap from rubbibg against face of inner fairing.
17. reinstall all handle bar stuff (switch housings, levers, and clutch cable)
17. zip tie clutch cable and break lines to whatever so they are not moving against stuff under/in the fairing.
18. somewhere back there I had to reinstall the inginition lock to allow movement (testing) of right left fork swing) which means remove again so you can reinstall the inner fairing fork cover.
19. reinstall radio (difficult to get the bolts back in with old stiff fingers), reconnect electrical connections, and install outer fairing.
20. drink only ONE beer, your deserve it.
21. take it for a test ride. what a difference.

Hope that helps. also the moral support of another marginally proficient home wrencher is advised. on second thought it always seems like we are experimenting on my scoots first.
 
  #4  
Old 09-21-2010 | 06:33 PM
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oldmsocko
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From: North East Ohio
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Sounds like alot of fun. I need the same done to mine but I think I am going to let a dealer do it. M3 doesn't want to have that much fun.
 
  #5  
Old 09-21-2010 | 11:08 PM
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Casper
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From: Blue Grass (KY)
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I put the Khrome Werks +2 sweepers on my Road Glide. I like the way they felt on the roady. I think I'm going with them on the TG....winter project
 
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