I'm going to my local HD dealer this week to talk to them about putting on the following.
Jackpot Dynotuned pipes
Woods TW6.6 Cams
jackpot head pipe
PcV with auto.
Warp head pipe and pipe out of back head.
I already bought these from Jamie.

Question How many hours should this work take and what would be a reasonable price?

When I have a estamated answer I'll try to make some kind of deal with him on total price.

Already have the SE stage 1 AC and Ultra Cooler install so this should about bring my Tri heat problems under control.

I should be able to get a good test out of it, when in OCT i'm take a trip from S Texas to Durango, Co, ABQ, Amarrilo and back home.

Thanks

Robert

 

Shouldn't be any charge to put on the mufflers or head pipe because they have to take the old stuff off to do the cams. So they should charge you labor to install cams, PCV & wrap pipe. I'm going to say right around 6 - 7 hours depending on whether they use adjustable push rods and take bolt cutters to the stock ones, this saves them from having to pull the tank and rocker box tops.

 

Figuratively speaking... one hour labor = $100.00 for estimating purposes.

Cams = 4 hrs (6 if tank removed),
Wrap Head pipe = 1 hr
Install PCV /auto = 2 hrs
Refit head pipe and muffs = 1 hr (be prepared to pay them something for this)


Look for 700 to 1000.00 which will include oil, gaskets and o-rings along with all taxes and junk fees.

Don't forget to add the price of new lifters and inner cam bearings when adding the new cam and adjustable push rods if you don't remove the tank.



It's not exact silence but will give you a ballpark figure to keep the surprises down. Your dealer or mechanic will quote your job before they do the work.

 

Did you say you are taking the work to a dealer? You must have a good one, a lot of them would void your warranty for bringing the Woods Cam and PC-5 onto the premisis.

Some even drag their feet on SE stuff...

I would check around with some good indy's if they balk at the installation. Although I am assuming you have already run it by them, the cams and the PC-V.

 

I have the dropin push rods. when I ordered the cams I got the installation kit also.


"Don't forget to add the price of new lifters and inner cam bearings when adding the new cam and adjustable push rods if you don't remove the tank"

I just talked to Fulemoto they said I could use the lifters and cam bearing that are in the bike. like I said I bought the adjustable push rods.

I have 8600 miles on the TRI, should I have them put in the new lifters and new Cam Bearing?

As far as the warrenty. I'll approach that when it comes up. I just want to have a machine that I can ride without all the heat. I'm going to keep all the old parts and if I have to replace them back on the TRI and take it and trade it in for a goldwing.

Robert

 

Yes, you could reuse your old lifters and bearings. The issue is that you are very close to the ROT (rule of thumb) to change your lifters if you have done your third oil change which is at 10,000 miles. Some mechanics say to change lifters after 8000 miles when installing new cams. So, this puts you on the bubble. Unless you want to take the chance of a wear pattern from your old lifters to groove your cams. You maybe fine, up to you. If were me, I would make the change to Black Ops lifters to reduce the lifter noise. But, you could ask the tech who will be doing the work. He will have to stand behind his work.

Since the Torrington B-168 bearings are so cheap and the factory bearings are known for going bad it simply makes sense to change them while you are in the cam chest. It only takes an extra 30 minutes and 20 bucks in parts.

 

+1, Mr Wizard is right on the money. For the few extra bucks for a set of lifters and the B-168 bearings I wouldn't chance it. Last winter when I did the SE255 cam install in my Trike which had 2800 miles I replaced the bearings with B-168 but kept the lifters because the mileage was very low. This winter I'm going to be bolting in a set of Wood 555 and will replace the lifters with new. I also lean towards the Head Quarters Black Ops lifters, Doug spent quite a bit of time researching and getting it done right when he developed these lifters.

 

These prices would be a pretty good baseline to go off of, the PC-V and AT should take less than an hour if the products come from us as everything will be programmed and configured and will be ready to install. As far as the inner bearings, our cam install kit includes the replacement Torrington B-168 bearings and we recommend replacing them. If you are doing your own cam swap and have a low mileage bike and do not have the proper tools, many users have swapped cams without any issues retaining the stock bearings however we always recommend changing them to the upgraded bearings if possible. For lifters if we do a cam swap on a bike with over 15,000 miles we replace them due to the relatively poor tolerances and premature wear we have seen on the roller of the stock lifters. We have had excellent results with the Wood's Directional lifters which have a far more precise tolerance on a lifter body, much better bleed rate, and a much more stable roller. These features make for a noticably quieter valvetrain along with far better durability.

 

I decided to take jamie's advice an go with the Wood's Directional lifters, since the cams are TW6.6. Since it is close to the 10000 mile mark, I told the dealer to do that service while it was in the shop.

Robert

 

Great news. I think you made the correct choice.

Hope you enjoy your new mods!