VP Clutch Installation
#21
03-27-2010, 12:44 PM
I guess there gets to be confusion between the easy pull they put in starting with the 06 MY and the other after market products. The ramps in my 06 were the easy pull ones the MoCo started installing with the 06 MY TC's. The SE clutch spring with those ramps was ok, and yes it did take some of the "ease" away
. I did have a problem with stop and go traffic. The addition of the VP83T took the clutch pull back to almost what it was when I had the stock clutch spring in it.
Obviously with Triglide only having the CVO spring which is litghter than the SE spring the clutch pull with the addition of the VP84T is easier than what my 06 Ultra is with the SE spring.
. I did have a problem with stop and go traffic. The addition of the VP83T took the clutch pull back to almost what it was when I had the stock clutch spring in it.Obviously with Triglide only having the CVO spring which is litghter than the SE spring the clutch pull with the addition of the VP84T is easier than what my 06 Ultra is with the SE spring.
#22
03-28-2010, 08:15 AM
Administrator
Side note:
If you install a VPC on a hydraulic clutch you will experience "creeping". Creeping is when your bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in and there is still forward movement of the bike.
Don't be fooled into believing a hydraulic clutch can't be adjusted. It can. Simply bleed the hydraulics like you bleed the brakes but with one pull on the clutch. No need to pump the clutch lever. One good bleed down will be plenty.
Just an FYI for your amusement.
If you install a VPC on a hydraulic clutch you will experience "creeping". Creeping is when your bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in and there is still forward movement of the bike.
Don't be fooled into believing a hydraulic clutch can't be adjusted. It can. Simply bleed the hydraulics like you bleed the brakes but with one pull on the clutch. No need to pump the clutch lever. One good bleed down will be plenty.
Just an FYI for your amusement.
#25
03-28-2010, 10:48 AM
Administrator
You can reuse that gasket many times before it wears or leaks.
Just as a suggestion though. Get yourself a really good T27 torx bit before you tackle the derby cover bolts. A cheap one will strip the torx out of the bolt head then you have to drill and use an ease out to remove the derby bolts. It's not very pleasant.
SnapOn makes a good one that you can order online for about 25 bucks. While you are at it get the T25. Those two are the most common sizes.
Just as a suggestion though. Get yourself a really good T27 torx bit before you tackle the derby cover bolts. A cheap one will strip the torx out of the bolt head then you have to drill and use an ease out to remove the derby bolts. It's not very pleasant.
SnapOn makes a good one that you can order online for about 25 bucks. While you are at it get the T25. Those two are the most common sizes.
#26
03-28-2010, 11:37 AM
You can reuse that gasket many times before it wears or leaks.
Just as a suggestion though. Get yourself a really good T27 torx bit before you tackle the derby cover bolts. A cheap one will strip the torx out of the bolt head then you have to drill and use an ease out to remove the derby bolts. It's not very pleasant.
SnapOn makes a good one that you can order online for about 25 bucks. While you are at it get the T25. Those two are the most common sizes.
Just as a suggestion though. Get yourself a really good T27 torx bit before you tackle the derby cover bolts. A cheap one will strip the torx out of the bolt head then you have to drill and use an ease out to remove the derby bolts. It's not very pleasant.
SnapOn makes a good one that you can order online for about 25 bucks. While you are at it get the T25. Those two are the most common sizes.
#27
03-28-2010, 12:02 PM
Administrator
M... guess you've broken your fair share of ease-outs too.
The combination of the material in the derby bolt and the, what looks like, brass of the outer primary just don't like each other. I think they expand and contract at different rates but you can put one bolt in, try to take it out a few minutes later and have one heck of a time without a good T27. They don't have to be tightened up to the extreme either... just make them a little snug and you're ready to ready to rock and roll.
The combination of the material in the derby bolt and the, what looks like, brass of the outer primary just don't like each other. I think they expand and contract at different rates but you can put one bolt in, try to take it out a few minutes later and have one heck of a time without a good T27. They don't have to be tightened up to the extreme either... just make them a little snug and you're ready to ready to rock and roll.
#28
03-28-2010, 12:28 PM
M... guess you've broken your fair share of ease-outs too.
The combination of the material in the derby bolt and the, what looks like, brass of the outer primary just don't like each other. I think they expand and contract at different rates but you can put one bolt in, try to take it out a few minutes later and have one heck of a time without a good T27. They don't have to be tightened up to the extreme either... just make them a little snug and you're ready to ready to rock and roll.
The combination of the material in the derby bolt and the, what looks like, brass of the outer primary just don't like each other. I think they expand and contract at different rates but you can put one bolt in, try to take it out a few minutes later and have one heck of a time without a good T27. They don't have to be tightened up to the extreme either... just make them a little snug and you're ready to ready to rock and roll.
It helps to coat them with blue loctite or anti sieze, and as you said "real light torque".
#29
03-28-2010, 02:54 PM
Been there, done that! Seems the more common T25 is a bit sloppy for the stock screws. After stripping on my first derby replace project, I converted to chrome allen screws. I was told once that sizes like T27 are rare and called "torx plus".
#30
03-29-2010, 08:22 AM
M... guess you've broken your fair share of ease-outs too.
The combination of the material in the derby bolt and the, what looks like, brass of the outer primary just don't like each other. I think they expand and contract at different rates but you can put one bolt in, try to take it out a few minutes later and have one heck of a time without a good T27. They don't have to be tightened up to the extreme either... just make them a little snug and you're ready to ready to rock and roll.
The combination of the material in the derby bolt and the, what looks like, brass of the outer primary just don't like each other. I think they expand and contract at different rates but you can put one bolt in, try to take it out a few minutes later and have one heck of a time without a good T27. They don't have to be tightened up to the extreme either... just make them a little snug and you're ready to ready to rock and roll.
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