The lift seller's 2 photos are pretty dark because his garage has pretty basic lighting only. When I quizzed him on more details, and looked at what different models of tabletop lift are or were being offered at Princess Auto (the original source of the lift), I realized that there are, or at least were, 2 different 1500 lb capacity models. His appears to actually be the less costly of the two, not the one I thought he was describing, If I am right, the one he has is (a) not nearly as robustly built, and (b) only 48" wide, which is just too narrow. In addition, in its lowest position it is about 7-1/4" high, which makes the ramp way too short.

So, my next idea:

Is it possible to slide a pallet jack under the trike from the rear, and be able to lift the rear end of the trike at 2 safe lift points with the 2 forks of the pallet jack, without touching anything (like the mufflers) that would be hurt by contac with the forks of the pallet jack? And, would there still be room available to place 2 jackstands?

Reasons for asking:

- Brand new pallet jacks with 3000 to 5000 lb ratings are quite inexpensive (as low as $300 Canadian = $220 US) and used ones a lot less.

- Once the optimal spacing between pallet jack forks is determined, it is relatively easy to get a pallet jack with just the right fork spacing, as they come in multiple fork widths and spacings, and some pallet jacks even have adjustable fork spacing. Also, same thing for fork LENGTH. Pallet jack forks can be anything from approximately 2 feet to 6 feet long - whatever works best for the job. And longer forks do NOT mean adverse leverage - the wheels at the end of the forks are mechanically coupled to the hydraulic cylinder at the handle, and those wheels would support the forks and the trike from DIRECTLY under the points of contact with the trike.

- No need to precisely align the trike on a barely wide enough tabletop lift when parking it routinely

- No need for the large footprint of a tabletop lift

- No need for a ramp

- The trike's rear end would not have to be lifted very far for routine washing of the trike, to be able to rotate the rear wheels for easier cleaning

- The trike's front wheel could be cleaned by removing the pallet jack and simply inserting a screw jack under the frame tubes right below the crankshaft per the HD user manual

- Total cost of both a pallet jack and screw jack would be pretty low compared to a decent tabletop lift

- In the worst case where something goes wrong, the trike would fall a very short distance compared to falling off a tabletop lift, where the tabletop lift itself adds 6 to 7 or more inches of dropping distance before the trike is even elevated.

Has anyone examined the feasibility of using a pallet jack?

Jim G

 

If you're that worried about the tires hanging over a little bit you can modify the table, example, get a 1x8 or 1x10 and cut it to the width you want, mount it to the table where the back tires are going to sit, the little overhang will then be supported.

 

That's true, but you also have to look at how wide is the tabletop lift FRAME under the tabletop. Once you start widening a tabletop, you are adding risk by cantilevering the tabletop top out further on each side. You are adding adverse leverage AND adverse balance. That's not something that I would be willing to do.

Jim G

 

FWIW - Adding a piece of 1.5" or 2" material (angle iron. box aluminum, wood) will add 3 - 4 inches to the width of your ramp.

 

That's true, but no point in making the ramp wider without also widening the tabeltop, and as I stated above, I would not want to widen the tabletop when the frame underneath it is already pretty narrow compared to the width of the tabletop with the side extensions on it to accept a trike!

Jim G

 

Pallet Jacks do not lift very high, just enough to raise the pallet for movement. Maybe 6 inches or so. Might want to research the lift height.

 

Cutting things to close almost always end up in a youtube fail

 

I did! They do vary. Some can lift only a few inches, and others lift much higher. For the vast majority of my usage, I would need only a few inches of lift to make it possible to spin the rear wheels when washing the trike and have them a few inches off the floor so I don't have to bend into a pretzel shape to clean them, and (b) ideally be able to still have access to place 2 jackstands versus depedning upon the pallet jack while I wash or work on the trike. The jackstands are not an "essential" if only lifting the trike to wash it (i.e. not trying to work UNDER the trike), as even if the hydraulic cylinder loses height, the worst that happens is a slow descent of the trike back to floor level. But, I would like to be able to palce jackstands and remove the pallet jack while washing OR working on the trike.

But the first thing to learn is whether or not the chassis of the trike will allow inserting the forks to 2 lift reliable points without hitting and damaging anything else. I may need to wait until I get my actual RG3 home to do some measuring if no one else has tried this.

Jim G

 

my lift has a bar that goes thru the frame to make it more sturdy side to side, I personally think you are worring about something that is not an issue.

 

$20,000 + for a trike and trying to cheap out on a lift. 🙄
Poor economic choice.



Ask this guy how much he “saved” buying a cheap lift.