Found this YouTuve video that shows the issues enciutnered when trying to lift an HD trike even following their user manual directions:


The weight distribution, at least on the video maker's 1200 lb TriGlide (about 40 lb heavier than the RG3 apparently), is even worse than I was led to believe: When the owner visited a truck scale and put only the FRONT wheel onto the scale, it read just 380 lb. So, out of 1200 total lb, his TriGlide had 820 lb on the rear wheels. He shows methods for lifting just ONE of each of the 3 wheels individually. The front is as I thought easy. The 2 rears are more complicated AND required lifting one wheel only at a time, using the "tow hook" location on each side, and specially sized and shaped wood blocks on top of the jack in order to give the tow hook a recess to fit inside while lifting the axle above it..

It would, at least in theory, be possible to lift BOTH the rear tires simultaneously on ONE lift, IF the lift had "forks" that could be spaced the right distance apart, and the forks were no too wide, and you might still need blocks to keep the forks below vulnerable chassis parts. You would also need to secure the front wheel VERY well to keep it from rolling and letting the trike slide forward off the forks. A table lift is obviosuly easier for washing and most repairs and maintenance, but you'd still need a screw jack to put under each tow hook in turn for any work that involves wheels and brakes.

Jim G

 

I found 2 videos on changing the trike mufflers. Both described the job as very difficult due to space constraints, but both got it done by first loosening each muffler's clamp, sliding the muffler forward onto the headpipe a bit to get better access to 1 of the muffler mounting bolts, and thensliding the muffler rearward a bit to get better access to the other muffler bolt. Then the muffler slipped easily off the headpipe. Reverse the process to mount the new mufflers.

Both videos used Tab slip-on mufflers. The set with the "Zombie" baffles was ridiculosuly loud and also irritating. The set with the "moderate" 2.5" baffles was quiter but still loud. It sounds like Tab might not offer the 3rd variant, the"quiet" baffles, they used to offer?

Interesting that the trikes require the 2016 and earlier "Touring" mufflers, which had both left and right mufflers with the same entry hole diameter, even though all the 2017 and later toruing bikes apparently have a larger right side entry hole than the left side does, even though the touring and trike models both use M8 engines.

Jim G

 

2016 and earlier were twin cam engines, 2017 and later are M8 engines.

 

DK Custom has lots of experience lifting Trikes; I would suggest a little research. I lift my Triglide with a floor Jack rear wheels first, block them; then lift the front wheel, and block it. The TG is high enough off the garage floor for me get access underneath safely on a mechanic’s creeper. Remember: Safety first!

 

I totally agree on the safety thing. My issue with your method is that it is fine for occasional mod or repair work, BUT for routine washing and waxing work, it's way too much time and effort. I need to get the soon-arriving trike off the floor, as whenever I have cleaned my current 2-wheeler, with very similar intricately spoked wheels, I have suffered with muscle pain for literally weeks after because of all the crouching, bending, and reaching needed to get certain tasks done - like for example reaching behind the brake discs to clean the wheel spokes, rims, and hubs. I need to get the trike off the floor.

Jim G

 

I used a single car jack with a long block of wood and 2 jack stands. Tie the front brake down to stop any movement.
Try not to over think everything. Too stressful.

 

I have a low 6'x10' flat deck trailer in my garage and I park my trike on it after every use. It also serves as a raised surface for washing and maintenance. Your logic of saving money by making performance upgrades before you get to know your trike is a waste of money, imo. I have put over 5k kms on my114 Freewheeler and have found that I had power to spare in all situations. If I upgraded my engine at time of purchase, I'd be saying the same thing but perhaps armed with the knowledge that there may be more spare, unusable power. You will enjoy the learning curve presented by your new trike. I find great satisfaction in perfecting my riding/driving skills. Improving my skills has made my trike increasingly more maneuverable and responsive. Money spent on comfort such as a Mustang or Corbin seat would be a far better investment in marital bliss and future resale. ;-)

 

Your advice is sound. That was how I felt when I bought my Breakout 117. It felt really good to me. But then I did some research about how Stage 1 mods on M8 engines work. The first thing that caught my eye was HD's Q&A replies on the HD Bluetooth tuner to people who had installed a Stage 1 package and now wanted to remove both the hardware and the tune, presumably because they are selling the bike and want to sell the exhaust and air intake hardware separately versus letting them go with the bike for no extra cash.

The HD replies, consistently, said that while you could always change or modify tunes, there was no way to undo the Stage 1 tune to go back to pure "stock" tune. The HD replies in each case stated that this is because the engine would perform better leaving the Stage 1 tune installed even with the Stage 1 hardware having been removed.

This of course implies one of three things:

1. The Stage 1 tune makes the engine run better because it undoes some of the mandated clean air settings. This is very unlikely because it would mean HD was breaking the law, and after their big historical fine, I doubt they would be so foolish. So count this one out.

2. HD has maybe adopted the marketing strategy that several auto manufacturers and some motorcycle manufacturers have embraced: Build a feature into the vehicle that some, or all, people would find attractive, but have access to it invisible and "locked out" in the as-delivered product, but if the buyer is willing to pay extra for it, sell him the access to it to make more margin. With modern vehicle computer systems, this is now easy for a manufacturer to do, and several do it. In the motorcycle world, I recall Ducati doing it in the early 2000s with the Monster model I owned. They offered a very aggressive (and high margin) package that included a rather loud freeflowing exhaust and computer tune that transformed an already impressive bike into a REAL Monster. My Monster was the first one the dealer did. It transformed an already very impressive bike into soemthing really special.

3. We all know that HD bikes are NOT anywhere near being "hotrods" as delivered. HD ships their bikes in a state of tune conservative enough to ensure that warranty claims will be low, and with just enough performance to satisfy many or even most buyers. But there are buyers who like to optimize things like throttle crispness, engine smoothness, and torque and power. By offering those buyers "packages" (Stages) that retain warranty, HD creates a high margin "extra" that makes more money for HD and satisfies those buyers who have the desire, and sufficient cash, to buy that "extra".

I think it's obvious that HD uses both 2. and 3. above.

And, the impact of PROPERLY selected Stage 1 hardware and tune IS rather notable. I proved that to myself in a longterm experiment that I documented in the Softail subforum on HDforums. That experiment PROVED that a well implemented Stage 1 package improves throttle crispness, improves engine smoothness, lowers the engine temperature under cruise (versus during acceleration) conditions, and makes enough extra torque / power to be easily felt by an attentive rider. I would be VERY unwilling to undo the Stage 1 results I got on my Breakout 117.

See:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2018-...n-exhaust.html

and

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2018-...nd-timing.html

Both threads are rather lengthy (because I am detailed and provide acxtual DATA), but if you read just the 1st post in each thread, and the most recent posts, you'll see what I am talking about.

Stage 1 is well worth doing if done RIGHT.

Jim G

 

I went from my 2009 Fat Boy to a 2022 CVO Tri Glide last November. I spent the winter reviewing all the YouTube videos I could on Tri Glides. The best site I found was DK Custom Products. The best advice I got was "ride your bike first" before spending $$$ on changing it. After riding it, I knew what my priorities were: 1) protect the CVO paint job, 2) Reduce engine heat to OEM specs and protect the engine, 3) improve rider comfort.
Therefore, the solutions to my priorities were 1) Hog Skins Paint Protection Film with Gtechniq Ceramic for PPF, 2) DK Custom's 1.5" Tank Lift Deluxe, Cooling Deflector Wings, EBS Catch Can, 3) 12" HD Batwing Mini-Ape Handlebar, Extended ISO Shift Pegs, DK Custom's 13" NexGen Shocks with lift kit, DEI Cool Shield for under the seat. Trust me, the $$$ add up quickly. I am glad I rode it first to know my needs and priorities and found the DK Custom website. I believe it saved me from making a mistake of adding things I thought I needed without riding it first (i.e., expensive oil cooler system,...). I did all the work myself and therefore bought a HD CVO Tri Glide Service Manual, Husky 3-ton Floor Jack with two Jack Stands.

 

Jim,

I tried to reply to your PM, but your mailbox is full and will not let my message go thru to you.

I'll try resending it later.

Kevin