Wow, lots to think about. I'm so far not discouraged with heat making my wife and me uncomfortable but I'm very concerned that the engine will not live long without an oil cooler.

I must ponder this.....

What other engine in the world runs heads cooler than the cylinders? Shrink the heads expand the cylinders........ crap really???!

 

Yeah, the heat, even in stock condition, does not bother me much, although it can be a bit uncomfortable for my wife sometimes. The main reason I cooled it down was because my first Tri-Glide, a 2011, had to have an entire new top end done under warranty, because it ran too hot. You can see my post on that here-

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/tri-g...tri-glide.html


Besides not wanting the engine to wear out pre-maturely, they run stronger, and get better MPG when they are not running too hot.

To get a water cooled Tri-Glide to run cooler, it is not necessary to do all the things I listed above. Each mod is incremental, so looking at the link I posted above on how to cool down a Twin Cam is a good way to decide which you want to do, and in what order.

I've done them all because we ride a lot, 2-up, fully loaded in some pretty hot weather sometimes.

Just yesterday, riding from Twin Falls, ID to Meridian, ID the ambient temps ranged between 99 and 104. Speed limit is 80 MPH, and there was a headwind. In those kind of conditions I think it is important to have every possible advantage in heat reduction, both for the engines sake and for rider/passenger comfort.

 

Get rid of the cat. And run synthetic oils.

 

I talked to the Head Mechanic at my dealer about that. He said he can change the exhaust (get rid of the cat) but he can't tune it.

Apparently in Kansas the only dealer that has a Dyno that works with a Trike is in Kansas City. I could go there but it's a long way from where I live.

That's probably what I'll have to do if the ride gets too hot.

I need to have a 90 degree plus day and sounds like at least a 45 minute trip to see what the engine heat will do to us.

Thanks to all,

Brian

 

With my 11 Tri-Glide, True duels cat-less, And a dealer stage 1... No heat problems SINCE 20011......

 

Did they tune it after installing the duels and stage 1?

 

Nope did the stage 1 first [it also ups the red line to 63 hundred rpm's]... Then a few weeks later did the pipes... From my old drag racing days i learned to do one thing at a time... then if something doesn't work you can go back to the last thing you changed..[Mechanics 101]

Just a thought on the Stage 1.. I'm thinking some dealers can tweak the Stage 1 a little better than others... Im saying that because' just with the stage 1 ''MY'' engine came alive...Some people say it didn't do much for them??

 

If you get a Power Vision Flash Tuner, it comes with a tune for your Trike and an auto-tune feature. Plug it in, ride it with auto-tune activated, and you will end up with a very good tune. Better than most dyno-tuners will give you.

Check out the Power Vision HERE, it is very easy to use. And if you ever change anything on your bike (pipes, air cleaner, cams etc.), you do not need to pay for another dyno tune, just get a new map for free, and then run auto-tune again.

 

I decated head pipe installed the 14 aircleaner just spent 3 days in the Carolinas. Bike ran flawlessly best tank 41 mpg worst 32 mpg. No tune of any kind. This is on a 13. I had a 14 limited. With a cobra complete exhaust system with SERT and dyno. I would not go with the new SERT not the same as the older ones. If I do a tuner I'm really looking at the power vision .

 

I thought a "Stage 1" was header replacement without the "cat"?

What is the definition of "Stage 1"?