bought 2016 toy hauler last year used it twice but this year we have 4 trips we will be doing / new truck camper a little over 64,000 you could spend a lot of nights in motel for that money and don't have to get it ready to go on a trip then get home clean it and put it up until the next time
also there the cost of staying in camp ground $40.00/$100 a night /then fuel to get there 10 miles to a gallon
do i enjoy it yes is it all wroth the work that goes into most of the time as far as i can tell so far
Graygoat,
You said the 6x10 V nose was a tight fit......Why was that the case. I thought a 6x10 would be plenty big What are the issues you allude to??? What are the dimensions of your trailer/
Graygoat,
You said the 6x10 V nose was a tight fit......Why was that the case. I thought a 6x10 would be plenty big What are the issues you allude to??? What are the dimensions of your trailer/
GARY
Gary,
There is enough room for the Tri, the spare trailer tire & a smaller box for straps & such. Not much room for anything else. It is a Bravo 6x10 with the V nose as additional space. I use a Condor chock, e-trac bolted thru the floor. I have the chock placed to get about 270# tongue wt ( about 12% total trike trailer wt) & trailer pulls nice with my F150. With this set up, there is only about 5 - 6" from the trike rear bumper (HD one) & the rear ramp door closed. There is only about 18" from the front wheel in the chock to the V nose. So if you are thinner & limber, you can move in there ok. I am neither. I helped my BIL set his 6x12 (same Bravo, V nose) like mine and had more room on both ends of the Tri. He even has a small cupboard built into his V. So, go 12' for sure, more room to get your tongue wt right.
As to the width, I have about 1.5" on each side as the fenders pass the ramp door cables going in & out. I made guides on the floor to keep the trike tires from getting too far off center when loading/unloading. Plus for my size tying down inside the trailer is very tight, I ain't as sveldt as I used to be!
Were I to replace the trailer, it would be at least 12' + the v. and at least 6.5' wide (if I could find one). Big difference in the tie down procedure between an enclosed and an open trailer. Hope this helps.
Graygoat,
Thanks much for the synopsis of how your tike fits in the 6x10 V Nose Trailer. The one major thing I had not thought about was the Spare Tire. My current trailer which the Trike will not fit in is a flat nose trailer with the Spare mounted on the front and it has a nice long tongue.....So that opened my eyes some. The trailer that I hope to sell first is too narrow for the Trike. I assume your trailer is 6 foot wide but apparently still a little narrow I assume due to the door opening width, not the inside width. I'm looking at FeatherLite and Aluma Trailers for less trailer weight but had not thought much about tongue weight. My truck a 2012 F350. Look forward to hauling the Trike south like I used to do with Bikes before I changed to the 2018 Trike Ultra......Old Age is not really as much fun but I guess I'll grow into this 3 wheel stuff sooner than later....I guess I better!?!?!?!
Graygoat,
Thanks much for the synopsis of how your tike fits in the 6x10 V Nose Trailer. The one major thing I had not thought about was the Spare Tire. My current trailer which the Trike will not fit in is a flat nose trailer with the Spare mounted on the front and it has a nice long tongue.....So that opened my eyes some. The trailer that I hope to sell first is too narrow for the Trike. I assume your trailer is 6 foot wide but apparently still a little narrow I assume due to the door opening width, not the inside width. I'm looking at FeatherLite and Aluma Trailers for less trailer weight but had not thought much about tongue weight. My truck a 2012 F350. Look forward to hauling the Trike south like I used to do with Bikes before I changed to the 2018 Trike Ultra......Old Age is not really as much fun but I guess I'll grow into this 3 wheel stuff sooner than later....I guess I better!?!?!?!
Thanks again,
Gary
Gary, you're right on the width. The narrow point is the ramp door cables as the trike fenders pass by them going in & back out. I took 2x3s and beveled a 45 degree on the edge next to the tires. I ran 2 in the center up the ramp part way and then on the floor all the way to the chock. They are spaced so there is about a half inch or so on both so the front tire can travel in the "track or grove". Then I have one on each side of the trailer so that the outside of the rear tires can set next to them. These run up the ramp and just far enough into the trailer so the trike is parked between them. So there are 4 "guides" total. When loading/unloading, I can feel if the trike rides up on one of the guides. Then I know I am not lined up right and can back out & start over. Keep in mind that you have to cut the guides ends off so that the door can close. I have bolted e-tack strips on the inside of both rear tires and 2 more strips going forward from the chock to the nose. I run 2 straps through the front wheel pulling forward to those e-tracks (I don't use the chock clam as it is too hard for me to pull the trike back & out of the clam). At the rear, I run a strap through each rear wheel from a bolted eye on the outside of each wheel to the e-track inside the other wheel. Like a cross tie set up. This way the rear wheels are strapped down to the floor and can not bounce over the floor guides. I don't use the frame "eyes" from the factory because it is too hard for me to reach them. But if you can reach them easily, you could cross tie from them. Bottom line, you do NOT want the trike to shift sideways during transport. This all works for me at this point.
I also have torsion suspension and I think it is better than springs for long distance. Hope this helps.
Gary, you're right on the width. The narrow point is the ramp door cables as the trike fenders pass by them going in & back out. I took 2x3s and beveled a 45 degree on the edge next to the tires. I ran 2 in the center up the ramp part way and then on the floor all the way to the chock. They are spaced so there is about a half inch or so on both so the front tire can travel in the "track or grove". Then I have one on each side of the trailer so that the outside of the rear tires can set next to them. These run up the ramp and just far enough into the trailer so the trike is parked between them. So there are 4 "guides" total. When loading/unloading, I can feel if the trike rides up on one of the guides. Then I know I am not lined up right and can back out & start over. Keep in mind that you have to cut the guides ends off so that the door can close. I have bolted e-tack strips on the inside of both rear tires and 2 more strips going forward from the chock to the nose. I run 2 straps through the front wheel pulling forward to those e-tracks (I don't use the chock clam as it is too hard for me to pull the trike back & out of the clam). At the rear, I run a strap through each rear wheel from a bolted eye on the outside of each wheel to the e-track inside the other wheel. Like a cross tie set up. This way the rear wheels are strapped down to the floor and can not bounce over the floor guides. I don't use the frame "eyes" from the factory because it is too hard for me to reach them. But if you can reach them easily, you could cross tie from them. Bottom line, you do NOT want the trike to shift sideways during transport. This all works for me at this point.
I also have torsion suspension and I think it is better than springs for long distance. Hope this helps.
Graygoat,
Awesome description of your tie down method.
Thanks,
Gary
Ended up getting a 7x12 tandem V-nose trailer instead of toy hauler, and we've taken the trike down to Florida from Ohio for two winters now. It's worked out really well. Even had sufficient room to haul down about 600 pounds of my wife's aunt's stuff this time. I did add a weight distributing hitch because the setup was over the tongue weight limit of the Jeep Grand Cherokee without one. (670 vs. 350 pounds, I'm at about 420# or so, about 12% with all the additional stuff.) It pulls really nice even though the Jeep isn't as massive as many of the pickup trucks I see on there. No instability, no weaving and bobbing, very little noise with the new friction-type hitch setup. The only downside is that mileage goes from about 29 to about 12!
Having the extra room allows us to bring a few other things, which is nice. The 7 foot width is nice, I've got some wiggle room when loading so if I can't have a straight shot in it doesn't matter within reason. The extra length of the V-nose gave us a place to put in some captive coat hangers I made, all the jack handles, hitch parts, tire iron and other tools have holders now. Same with the spare, I made a mount for that. Plus storage for all the straps. I added several heavy duty tie down locations. Added rear hacks like on a pop up camper to stabilize the back when loading. I put in a pass-through for electricity and an outlet strip for the trickle charger and AC lights, plus some magnetic strips to attach battery operated LED lights to. Handles to help getting in and out, a little step, too.
The floor has been painted with outdoor floor paint since the photos, I added that anti-slip sandpaper strips for both wheels so it doesn't slide on the ramp if it gets wet, put a center stripe to help aiming going in and a bunch of other stuff.
Threshhold cover Removable chock mount Rear jack tool
Anti-slip Battens for storage containers and even a porta-john, just in case.
Added those two front tie-downs to keep the wheel in the chock instead of using the ones on the side. Lots of hooks and stuff.
02-09-2019 | 05:38 AM
