I've got 2010 Tri-Glide, SE255 cam....compensator replaced to SE type a year ago, chain tensioner upgraded to Hayden a couple weeks ago, clutch disks replaced with SE pack (Barnett+1?) a year ago, ClutchWiz installed with clutch pack. I'm using Redline Primary oil.
I have adjusted my clutch now about "6 ways to Sunday" (ClutchWiz procedure). I've got that allen screw on clutch pack turned snug. It still bangs into 1st, tight on downshifting, not easy finding neutral. If I'm at at stop, in gear, with clutch depressed completely, the trike will slowly drift. Should I be using an ATF fluid? Maybe Hayden tensioner isn't broken in yet? (but that shouldn't cause drifting?). Seems last time it worked right was before Hayden tensioner installed and fluid change. Dealer had made previous adjustment.
Thanks in advance.

 

"That allen screw" is the clutch adjuster it should not be "snug". The clutch should not have been adjusted 6 different ways. It should be adjusted as per the manual. I'm sure there are a couple of threads on here about it.
1. Loosen jam nut on cable adj. all the way
2. loosen lock nut on clutch adj. screw "that allen screw"
3. Back out adj. screw 1/2 to 1 full turn tighten jam nut while holding adj. screw with a allen wrench. (You don't want the adj. screw to tighten while tighting the jam nut)
Squeeze clutch lever 3 times to set ball ramp release mechanism.
4. turn cable adj. away from jam nut until slack at hand lever is gone. Pull clutch cable by the lever to check free play. Turn cable adj. as needed to get 1 1/6-1/18 of free play beteween end of cable and lever.
5. Tighten cable adj. jam nut.
You need a manual or just take it back to the dealer as much as I hate to say that

 

Maybe I used the wrong expression "6 ways to Sunday". I used the same adjustment procedure many times. I don't have a stock clutch pack so there is no 1/2 turn backward of adjustment screw. I used the procedure written by the Wiz for his Hayden tensioner/ Barnett clutch pack installation which shows to turn allen adjuster in until resistance. Thanks.

 

If you have the clutch adjusted as per instructions as you say then the FIRST thing I would suspect is over filled primary. Make sure clutch plates are not submerged in oil.

 

* Important Details and a Correction

 

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You might want to fully read what I wrote. You repeated exactly what I wrote exactly under where I wrote it.
1 1/6 is a 16th of an inch 1 1/8 is a 1/8 of an inch. And I also wrote 1/2 to 1 turn backed off. On the adj screw. Not to mention his adjuster is already sung.
So I don't see how your correcting or adding something. When I already wrote it?

 

Why should an after market clutch be any different from stock when it's time for adjustments?
I understand after market may use different specks for their designs. But shouldn't the end result be a better functioning system that should also work better and less complicated to mauntain? Otherwise why bother?

 

I stand corrected. Did you hold the clutch lever in while snugging the adj. screw. And did you hold the adj. screw while tightening the jam nut so the adjuster don't tighten with the jam nut?
As said above the other thing is to much fluid. Or something with the plates weather there in the wrong order or something.



Here's were the fluid should be

 

Sorry you were offended by that. It would seem you didn't understand the two points I clarified and why?

You did NOT mention how to arrive at the starting point for the main adjustment. "Snug" can be misunderstood when using tools. Finger tight is what I was taught.

Your indication of "1 1/6" seemed confusing to me and not to represent 1/16th. Same with your indication of "1/18" to mean an 8th of an inch. These appear to me to mean 1 and 1/6th of an inch, and 1/18th of an inch. Can you see the differences? (Maybe it was just a typing error?)


Your recently added diagram and details will help a lot. Nice of you to post those details too.