What about the synthetic oil Harley Davidson sells. You can use it in all 3 places on bikes

 

This title should be changed to "Sorry, old oil thread".

 

In addition,, ; the word "synthetic" on the label doesn't mean thats whats in the can. In North America there is a grade of Dino oil which can legally be marketed as a synthetic when by traditional and European definitions it is not. Yep, it'll sell for considerably less than a PAO or Ester based synthetic but all it is is a very highly refined Dino.

PAO and Ester base oils are expensive, so when companies use them in their products, they tend to be proud enough of that fact to brag it to you on the product label. Beware "Synthetics" that sell well below average prices and have proprietary ingredients so special that the world just isn't ready to know what they are. "Dino" !

 

Before doing an oil change myself at 5,000 miles (had dealer do the 1,000) I posted an oil choice question. Got some discussion about what to use plus I did as much research as I could.


I pretty much decided to go with Syn3 from Harley even though it is about the most expensive. I figured I am saving a ton by doing it myself anyway so why not spend the extra.

 

You can use the Mobile1 20W50 in all three. Ditto Redline and Amsoil

 

Why would anyone use RL 20/50 in their primary when for $1.00 / change more, RL supplies a dedicated primary oil with modifiers in it that mitigate slippage ? For $2.00 / change more you get "Shockproof Transmission Oil" which is pretty much legendary. I don't get the idea behind paying a significant premium for a brand like RL and then using the wrong oil type to save 3 bux. Same with Amsoil.

Correction; just checked an Amsoil site:

http://www.amsoil.com/lookup/motorcy...metric-volume/

Their dedicated primary oil is cheaper !!

 

Please go back and read the post by laabdog that I responded to. I was simply giving him the heads up that there are other alternatives the the moco branded oil if he wishes to use the same weight oil in all three holes. I myself do not. I use the Redline specific oil for each hole.

 

My apologies. I did take you out of context by mistake.

 

No problem. All is good. I do agree with your assessment and that is why I have my indie use the specific oil specified for the engine, primary and, transmission. I still change out the brake in oil at 500 miles and, the first filter change is at no more than 250 miles. I don't give a damn how good the moco says they flush the engine before it goes into the frame. Oil filters are cheap insurance imho.

 

Like you, I'm a RL user with the right oil for the right hole. I like the fact that RL eschews EPA gayness and loads their 20/50 up with plenty of ZDDP. I'm a big fan of reusable filters too and can attest that with the RL 20/50 plus PurePower high flow filter my running temps dropped an easy 10 deg F on average and my cold oil pressure dropped by 5 psi.

We don't have the high temp issues up here that you may encounter in Tx but even mid summer morning starts here can routinely be below 70 deg. F. That makes flow rates and lubrication on startups more of an issue for us. Low viscocity / high film strength oil and high flow filters with a progressive bypass address those issues nicely IMHO. Air cooled engines have endured thick waxy dino oil totally circumventing (bypassing), filter elements during the first minute after startup for decades, I know, but its not something I'm about to settle for when I don't have to.