Handlebars on a 2016 tri glide
#1
#2
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Oogie Wa Wa (01-03-2017)
#4
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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The only adjustment is to rotate them a little forward or a little back..this changes the height a very small amount.
If you want them significantly higher (more than an inch) you will need different handlebars. Depending on how high you go, you may also need wiring extensions, brake and clutch line extensions, etc.
There are a ton of choices, but it can get frustrating and expensive to start playing "musical handlebars", best to get it right the first time.
Having the right or wrong handlebar position can make all the difference between a really comfortable ride, or shoulder, neck, arm or wrists that start hurting after riding a few hours.
Finding the perfect handlebar position for You
This can make all the difference!
This is the way that has always worked for me to get the most comfortable handlebar position-
Sit on your bike
Have someone hold it up straight for you (not needed for our Trikes)
Put your feet on the pegs
Close your eyes
Put your hands out to where it is most comfortable to hold them
Open your eyes...where ever your hands are, that is where you want the handlebar grips to be.
With this information you can adjust your existing handlebars or visit a trusted vendor to get some bars that put the grips where You need them for max comfort.
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The following 4 users liked this post by DK Custom:
BinIdaho (08-04-2019),
Fearless (old nickname) (01-02-2017),
RetiredSarge (01-05-2017),
user 7208202182 (01-02-2017)
#5
#6
Pay particular attention to the wrist angle other bars have; your hands can be in exactly the right position, but unless your wrists are at the right angle it won't matter. That's why I got rid of the stock bars, and then the Klock Werks Ergo Backs, which were even worse. Went with the Krome Works 2+2 narrows and really like them.
The following users liked this post:
DK Custom (01-03-2017)
#7
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,758
Received 4,214 Likes
on
2,450 Posts
Pay particular attention to the wrist angle other bars have; your hands can be in exactly the right position, but unless your wrists are at the right angle it won't matter. That's why I got rid of the stock bars, and then the Klock Werks Ergo Backs, which were even worse. Went with the Krome Works 2+2 narrows and really like them.
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#8
I was wondering, is there any way to raise the Handlebars? Mine seem really low. Looking at the front fairing there does not look there is any adjustment that would really help.
Let me start with I AM NO MECHANIC. if you question is more related to how,
it's difficult at best. You have to dismantle the entire front cowling and I have seen estimates of 4 to 6+ hours.
My dealer quoted me 6 hours of labor which far exceeds the cost of the bars, so doing it right the first time is essential.
Jeffrey
Let me start with I AM NO MECHANIC. if you question is more related to how,
it's difficult at best. You have to dismantle the entire front cowling and I have seen estimates of 4 to 6+ hours.
My dealer quoted me 6 hours of labor which far exceeds the cost of the bars, so doing it right the first time is essential.
Jeffrey
#9
I was wondering, is there any way to raise the Handlebars? Mine seem really low. Looking at the front fairing there does not look there is any adjustment that would really help.
Let me start with I AM NO MECHANIC. if you question is more related to how,
it's difficult at best. You have to dismantle the entire front cowling and I have seen estimates of 4 to 6+ hours.
My dealer quoted me 6 hours of labor which far exceeds the cost of the bars, so doing it right the first time is essential.
Jeffrey
Let me start with I AM NO MECHANIC. if you question is more related to how,
it's difficult at best. You have to dismantle the entire front cowling and I have seen estimates of 4 to 6+ hours.
My dealer quoted me 6 hours of labor which far exceeds the cost of the bars, so doing it right the first time is essential.
Jeffrey