NMy bad damn key boards smart phone crap up things in wrong place and left things out auto correction ****

 

OP mentioned it started after primary fluid change and Hayden tensioner. The Tensioner would not cause it. Overfilled primary will cause clutch drag.

Can't count how many times I've seen that...mostly from a dealership dumping too much in.

 

I can see some ppl filling the primary using the cover as a fill gage, rather than the outer plate

 

Here it what the problem is...

Boom... you don't know what clutch disc's are in there. You said SE then called it Barnett +1. Which is it?

The SE is just a heavy clutch disc material but the +1 is an extra disc and steel.

If it is any +1 kit then it is not milled to thickness specs. This happens. Take the clutch disc and steels back out and remove the Damper Spring (concave metal washer behind the clutch disc's). Leave the flat Damper washer installed.

This will release the pressure causing the drag from the clutch disc component out of spec (too thick or warped).

Adjust the ClutchWIZ according to the instructions on my site. Do not adjust it according to HD with the extra 1/2 turn CCW after zero lash.

If this still doesn't do it then get with me via email and I'll help you work it out. It hasn't anything to do with the CW but I've been asked this many times.

 

WIN!

 

Thanks Wiz for chiming in!! I've pulled clutch and here's what the SE pack is: 1st disk (from engine outward) is Kevlar friction plate. Then alternating steel, Kevlar, steel, Kevlar, etc. Total 9 Kevlar friction plates, 8 steels. Dealer says it is a Barnett+1 (don't think so!). It did work OK before I installed Hayden but dealer did clutch pack install a year ago and seemed to know correct adjustment. I don't want to take it back. They made adjust w/o ClutchWiz. Don't know why I got talked into that SE clutch pack! At this time, I'm using your adjustment and fluid mix and seems to be a bit better. Should I back adj. screw off a bit and will that give the disks a bit more breathing room? Creeping in gear isn't as bad. Still bangs into first.
I'm sure it has nothing to do with ClutchWiz. It's that SE clutch pack!

 

Stick with the documented adjustment but do remove the Damper Spring.

 

Sorry, no damper spring.
Anyway, I'm about ready to scrap this SE clutch pack and purchase the Barnett+1. Then I'll have a better baseline to start with when I run through your written procedure. Well documented, I might add.
BTW, one last try, will backing-off the allen screw about a quarter turn have a better results or am I just going in the wrong direction?

 

Moving the allen screw CCW will lessen the friction zone in the swing of the clutch lever.

Try 1/8th turn if you must but not over 1/4 turn CCW. Do not turn CW after zero lash or the clutch may not engage.