wont start?
#1
wont start?
Ok guys did a quick search with no answers to what im lookin for. I got a 2012 with pyo 14" monkey bars. Friday i rode to a friends tattoo shop when i went to leave turned the ignition on waited for the engine light to go out hit the start button and nothin happened no even a click. I flipped the run switch to off and back on still nothin. Turn the ignition off back on hit the starter fired right back up. Yesterday i was out ridin around go get gas. Same thing happened. Turn the ignition switch off then back on hit the starter button and fired up. The bike was in rain and dust last week in sturgis. So my question is do you guys think its maybe the starter button wire in the bars or do you think there is possibly dirt behind the button or just the button goin bad?
#2
#3
what year/ model?
the ignition switch contacts could be bad- if you run a high watt headlight or added lighting up front this can overload the switch.
or...if could be the switches/bar wiring.
when this happens again rather than cycle the ign switch, bang on the bars with the heel of your hand...what happens?
if you soldered wires when you put on your bars, look at the joints- soldered wire connections will break right where the tinning ends due to vibration
it could also be the starter relay- easy enough to swap relays under the cover
to bypass teh starter primary circuit you can attach a jumper wire to the solenoid ( pull the green wire off teh terminal), and touch the other end to battery hot ( starter should run...so bike in Neutral).
some guys give up and install a plunger type solenoid end cover ( $30)- this removes the starter switch, relay and wiring from the equation
mike
the ignition switch contacts could be bad- if you run a high watt headlight or added lighting up front this can overload the switch.
or...if could be the switches/bar wiring.
when this happens again rather than cycle the ign switch, bang on the bars with the heel of your hand...what happens?
if you soldered wires when you put on your bars, look at the joints- soldered wire connections will break right where the tinning ends due to vibration
it could also be the starter relay- easy enough to swap relays under the cover
to bypass teh starter primary circuit you can attach a jumper wire to the solenoid ( pull the green wire off teh terminal), and touch the other end to battery hot ( starter should run...so bike in Neutral).
some guys give up and install a plunger type solenoid end cover ( $30)- this removes the starter switch, relay and wiring from the equation
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 08-17-2014 at 11:20 AM.
#4
It is a 2012 streetglide. No added lighting to it all that is factory. Ill keep in mind bangin on the bars if it happens againm im not sure if the wires are soldered together or not since i had my indy put them on for me. Ill ask him when my new tires come in. Thanks for the info mike. I do a lot of ridin usually solo so i dont really wanna end up in bfe and the bike wont start haha
#5
make up a 3' jumper wire to bypass the bar controls as above.
crimp a terminal on one end that'll fit your solenoid terminal...the other end you can touch to the battery +- if you have power in the battery...the starter will jump ( so be in Neutral otherwise you'll watch yer bike going away)
if you have a tender pigtail you can get power from there depending on the fuse value.
just keep that in the saddlebag, MacGiver.
if your model has a clutch switch, look at that too.( blk/red wire)
mike
crimp a terminal on one end that'll fit your solenoid terminal...the other end you can touch to the battery +- if you have power in the battery...the starter will jump ( so be in Neutral otherwise you'll watch yer bike going away)
if you have a tender pigtail you can get power from there depending on the fuse value.
just keep that in the saddlebag, MacGiver.
if your model has a clutch switch, look at that too.( blk/red wire)
mike
#7
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