Down shifing teqnique
#22
One has no braking control over the rear wheel when you engine brake. You are at the mercy of engine compression, the rest of the power train and the road surface or whatever is on the road surface. Adding engine braking to a rear wheel braking event creates chaotic stopping ability especially on a non ABS bike. And ABS cannot help you with an engine braking event on its own whatsoever. ABS modulating the rear brake doesn't do anything to the engine.
Downshifting (selecting the right gear for your speed) as you are braking without engine braking is the proper technique. This gives you full control of the rear brake given the surface you are riding on and following the gears down puts you in the right gear for a sudden dump of the clutch for other collision avoidance (brake and escape) after a braking event.
If one continues to use engine braking during normal events...then when it hits the fan you will revert back to those techniques and lose total control of rear wheel braking when you combine engine braking with rear wheel braking.
Downshifting (selecting the proper gear for the proper RPM) and adjusting/matching the RPM for that gear prior to re-engaging the clutch is a normal thing but when you continue to combine engine braking with a braking event you will be asking for trouble in the long run.
Downshifting (selecting the right gear for your speed) as you are braking without engine braking is the proper technique. This gives you full control of the rear brake given the surface you are riding on and following the gears down puts you in the right gear for a sudden dump of the clutch for other collision avoidance (brake and escape) after a braking event.
If one continues to use engine braking during normal events...then when it hits the fan you will revert back to those techniques and lose total control of rear wheel braking when you combine engine braking with rear wheel braking.
Downshifting (selecting the proper gear for the proper RPM) and adjusting/matching the RPM for that gear prior to re-engaging the clutch is a normal thing but when you continue to combine engine braking with a braking event you will be asking for trouble in the long run.
#24
He always said the same thing when I was learning and have used his knowledge since learning to drive. Always downshift and let the engine do the work for you.
Although I have started tapping my brake lights so others know I am slowing just in case.
#25
Yup
i've driven manual transmissions all my life. in all my vehicles i downshift down through the gears, seldom coast and go from a higher gear straight to 1st....might if i coast but thats seldom. i just had my front brake on the bike replaced at my 20000 mile service, i probably could have gone a little longer.....the back looked new according to the service folks. as mentioned on earlier earlier posts, make sure your road speed is appropriate to the gear you're gonna go in.....can be a little surprising if you're not.
#26
My point is that engine braking is not consistent and most times violently applied to the rear wheel. That combined with rear braking application is not consistent and can not be solely controlled by the operator as with rear brake or front & rear brake application alone.
So if you continue to use engine braking in normal situations...when you get into a needed heavy brake application then you will revert to what to normally do and start downshifting and dumping the clutch at every gear. You need to concentrate on disengaging the clutch, downshifting to follow bike speed (but not dumping the clutch) and proper application of the brakes front and rear. Engine braking will upset the weight shift of the bike when stopping and never be consistent or smooth as you are trying to apply front and rear combination braking. And up to 90% of your stopping ability comes from your front brakes....upsetting that weight shift to the front end to apply maximum front brakes will never happen with engine braking each time you dump the clutch making the bike bounce.
Watch a cop...try to out brake a trained cop with your engine braking techniques. You will lose by car lengths.
Personal potshots..."****" are not appreciated. I bet you guys are the same ones that are experts in "laying a bike down" too.
#27
Depends on the situation for me. Sometimes I do sometimes I don't. Sometimes I use every gear for downshifting and sometime I skip a gear or two before letting the clutch out.
I never understood the throttle blip thing. In a normal stop the next lower gear doesn't raise the rpms enough for me to blip the throttle, maybe if you're going from six to third I could see it, but in any normal downshifting scenario I don't get it. Modern trans have syncros to eliminate the need to precisely match engine speed to selected gear.
I never understood the throttle blip thing. In a normal stop the next lower gear doesn't raise the rpms enough for me to blip the throttle, maybe if you're going from six to third I could see it, but in any normal downshifting scenario I don't get it. Modern trans have syncros to eliminate the need to precisely match engine speed to selected gear.
#28
Indeed. Watch a cop, an MSF instructor, or anyone who competes in parking lot rodeos. They all use engine braking in conjunction with the front and rear brakes. Try to out-brake me without engine braking and you'll lose by car lengths.
#29
The OP was talking about downshifting and letting out the clutch lever each time while downshifting through the gears while braking (or coming to a stop) typically referred to as engine braking.
My point is that engine braking is not consistent and most times violently applied to the rear wheel. That combined with rear braking application is not consistent and can not be solely controlled by the operator as with rear brake or front & rear brake application alone.
So if you continue to use engine braking in normal situations...when you get into a needed heavy brake application then you will revert to what to normally do and start downshifting and dumping the clutch at every gear. You need to concentrate on disengaging the clutch, downshifting to follow bike speed (but not dumping the clutch) and proper application of the brakes front and rear. Engine braking will upset the weight shift of the bike when stopping and never be consistent or smooth as you are trying to apply front and rear combination braking. And up to 90% of your stopping ability comes from your front brakes....upsetting that weight shift to the front end to apply maximum front brakes will never happen with engine braking each time you dump the clutch making the bike bounce.
Watch a cop...try to out brake a trained cop with your engine braking techniques. You will lose by car lengths.
Personal potshots..."****" are not appreciated. I bet you guys are the same ones that are experts in "laying a bike down" too.
My point is that engine braking is not consistent and most times violently applied to the rear wheel. That combined with rear braking application is not consistent and can not be solely controlled by the operator as with rear brake or front & rear brake application alone.
So if you continue to use engine braking in normal situations...when you get into a needed heavy brake application then you will revert to what to normally do and start downshifting and dumping the clutch at every gear. You need to concentrate on disengaging the clutch, downshifting to follow bike speed (but not dumping the clutch) and proper application of the brakes front and rear. Engine braking will upset the weight shift of the bike when stopping and never be consistent or smooth as you are trying to apply front and rear combination braking. And up to 90% of your stopping ability comes from your front brakes....upsetting that weight shift to the front end to apply maximum front brakes will never happen with engine braking each time you dump the clutch making the bike bounce.
Watch a cop...try to out brake a trained cop with your engine braking techniques. You will lose by car lengths.
Personal potshots..."****" are not appreciated. I bet you guys are the same ones that are experts in "laying a bike down" too.
for some reason you must think you are better, an instructor, LEO,?