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Cv tuning questions??

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Old 03-16-2014, 11:37 AM
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Default Cv tuning questions??

I know another carb question, I have a 99 flhr and other than the normal mods, I was looking into a super E carb but am wondering if the cv tuner kits are worth the money? Just looking for some better throttle response and possibly a bit more power. Any input on the tuner kit of carb would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:33 PM
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You can tune it yourself the jets and needles are available at alot of bike shops, including dirt bikes. Kawasaki uses the CV40 on the KLR & KLX.

Have you done the 22 1/2 cent mod?

I used an O-ring to shim the needle on mine instead of stainless steel washers, to save weight. In my eyes less weight makes for faster response as well as additional vacuum encouraged by drilling the slide. You dont need to shim it if you have the adjustable needle.

Rejeting and the 22 cent mod turned my KLX into a damn monster. It takes some tinkering to get it set up just right, taking the carb off a couple times, but was worth it for me. I also used a tip cleaner, used to clean cutting torch tips, to clean any hole that one would fit into when I cleaned the carb.

There's a ton of information on the web pertaining to tuning the CV.

If you were racing the bike a different carb might be necessary but for street use, in my opinion, moding the CV to the max is sufficient and cheap.
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:46 PM
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This is worth the time...

http://youtu.be/iTPPP8jkje4

It cost me about $15 to set my CV to run with my cams/headwork/big bore/pipes.

True story.
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 01:40 PM
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DO NOT buy a tuner kit.
some of them are really crap ( esp the plastic slide kits) ...dynojet, thunderslide or whatever.



the CV carb is a great carb and easily tuned.
( the mikuni and S&S do not self compensate for altitude...this is where the CV shines)

nightrider.com has the cv carb mods and tuning info I use, look at biketech, then cv carb on the rt side.

ensure that the diaphragm rubber is not pinholed, you may need a new one if you have had lean backfire through the carb throat


you can chamfer the leading edge on the slide, polish the slide runner and drill the air bleed in the slide to .125"
add the sportster needle ( N65) and some jetting and off you go.
expect to lay out a few bucks each for needle and jets.
I would guess 048 and 180 jets as a starting point.
I have found no advantage is spring kits for the slide- save your $$

I replace my float bowl screws with 4mm allen head, easier to drop float bowl for tuning when air cleaner is in place.
a little hand mirror helps too.

mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; 03-16-2014 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. I did put a bigger main jet in last year after it was on the dyno but that's all I did. I will look into a few other mods.
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:43 PM
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Mike? So if I read the article right if I get the sportster needle I don't need to shim it with washers? I will be pulling my carb off soon since it's still 30 degrees out and snow covered ground here in mn.
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowmaster113
Thanks for the info guys. I did put a bigger main jet in last year after it was on the dyno but that's all I did. I will look into a few other mods.
Pilot jet will do more for your throttle response issue.

They are pretty inexpensive (I paid like $6 each at a Yamaha parts counter), unless you buy them from H-D because they (my local dealers anyway) only sell them as kits...

Swapping them is pretty simple. Just pull the carb bowl and use a short flathead screwdriver. Carb doesn't even need to be pulled.
 
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