Well, I had already done this mod on my RK, but what I don't like about it is that if you leave the toggle switch on and turn your ignition switch to acc, the passing lights are still on. That's not really a big deal, but it's annoying if you turn off the bike and switch to acc mode regularly, like to power LED engine lights or a radio.

Here's what I did: Instead of the re-connecting the yellow passing lights lead to the acc circuit, find the blue wire inside the nacelle that leads to the left handlebar switches and connect it to that. That wire feeds power to the high/low beam switch. In stock form, this circuit provides power to the headlight and your passing lights, so all you're adding is the extra high-beam load, which I'll bet is the way it was wired in previous years anyway.

 

You may be right, but I as well as alot of other people and business (ie, car stero install shopsbig names)have beenusing this type of connector for years and have never had a major problem. I have soldiered many things before and I am good at it. But, I guess to eachits own.

Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll solder the next time.

Moe

 

The factory fog/driving lights on my Jeep Wrangler also work onlywith the headlights on low beam. Seems pretty stupid to me.

 

Just finished converting mine just like TexasRedneck instructed, no problems, works great. Just need to remember to NOT switch to "assy" to listen to radio with the "spots" switch on.

There shouldn't be any problems running the "spots" with the high beam on, just adds 10 watts (55W low / 65W high). That rounds out to just a about 1 amp more load and Whole lot more lumens. Up here in Wyoming with all the wildlife on the roads in the evenings and nights, we need all the lumens we can get! Thanks TR for sharing this conversion.[sm=goodidea.gif]

 

Just so I'm clear:

The single grey wire coming out of each light assembly still goes with the three wires for the blinker, right? It plugs into number 4 of the molex? (I think that was what it said)

The black and grey wires off of the spot switchgo to the big plug, and the yellow is soldered to the orange/red on theaux switch?

I have everything put together and installed,all I have left this morning is the wiring.
I just want to make sure I understand this correctly beforeI go out there.
Thanks guys.
-Kern

 

Did you disconnect the battery? and if so, is there another way, without removing the seat?

Thanks

 

Why "NOT" switch to "assy" to listen to radio with the "spots" switch on?

 

You can go ahead and switch to "assy" with the spots on and listen to the radio while you polish your ride or something, just don't want to do it too long or else your battery will soon go dead. I guess I was just wanting everyone to know that this conversion is great, just changes the original set up. I like it a lot, works great.

 

You don't have to disconnect the battery, just remove the LH bag and side cover, pull the "maxi-fuse", this will remove power to fork lock/ignition switch. See shop manual for details as you will have to follow a procedure to get the fork lock/ignition switch off so you can remove the switch cover to make these wiring changes. Only takes about 1/2 hour if you follow the instructions in the book.

 

Being a 'novice' I checked google for a 07 FLHTC "shop manual" and or "service manual" and didn't receive any hits (at least I didn't see any). I also checked the 2007 Genuine Motor Accessories & Genuine Motor Parts catalog that I received upon purchase of my bike. Struck out there.

Where do I purchase a "shop manual"?

When I do make the modification for the "spots", this would be the time to add my extra garage door opener to the high beam. Any suggestions?

Thanks