Once completed per the wiring information that I showed, the lamp switch will continue to allow you to turn the lamps off at will. That's why it's important to do the tie-ins per the color code provided. If you wire the bypass after the switch (which is a different colored wire), then the switch won't function.

Some states have requirements regarding how many lights may be illuminated on a m/c at one time. Canada, for example, says you can only operate 2 lights at a time. That's my understanding as to why it's wired this way.

Ampacity of the circuit is not an apparent issue, since the OEM wiring will also carry the dual-beam headlight which operates BOTH high and low beam when ya select the high-beam. Havin' seen both the wiring and the schematic, it's certainly robust enough ta handle the load.

Since I have used the acc. circuit to power the spots, I'm going to "downgrade" the balance of the switchable load via the acc switch. Anything I tie into THAT circuit will be via a relay, so the circuit will only be used to "fire" the relay coil (milliamps). I might hasten to add that I tend to "overdesign" anything, be it electrical or mechanical, so I always leave LOTS (perhaps too much to some) of "fudge" room in my designs....but ah've never burned up a circuit from overloading!

I tinker - a LOT. Built a workshop out back last year - 16' x 20'. With the exception of the concrete foundation, I did the rest - frame, roof, electrical - even to the custom-made double dutch doors. Was blessed to have been raised in a family-owned hardware store with a Dad & Grandfather that didn't believe in paying someone else to do something they could do themselves - and they could do a LOT!! Learned a lot from 'em both - sure wish they were still around to teach me more!



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Thanks for the pictures.
capt42a

 

Great info, and I really appreciate it. Does anyone know how to gain access to the wiring on a RK?

 

we seems to be of the same character...very handy, over engineer everything and hate to pay someone for a job that I can do on my own. I know its off topic, but i have attached a couple pics of my shop that I build by myself (except for the brick kneewall and concrete). And I mean by myself, virtually with no help at all. Took me 1 1/2 years. I have it completed now. These pics are about a year old.

 

probably help if i actually attach the pics.

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Hdbiker1450 you need to remove the headlight, nacelle,a passing lamps, etc to get to the wiring to do this on a RK

 

I just complete this modification to my SG to work with my fog lights. Works great!!!! Thanks for the tip

 

wow that soldering thing sure seemed like a lot of work when you could have done this:

 

51Moe - the method you suggest is fine on YER bike - but you get ANYWHERE near MY bike - or that of a friends - an' we're gonna have a problem, my friend. Line taps are NOT a "good" method of "wiring" ANYthing - much less a motorcycle! I know folks use 'em - but they also use aluminum wiring in mobile homes. Line taps WILL cause premature wire failure, because they rely on "cutting" into the edges of the wiring to get the power. That cut weakens the wire. Over time, the area WILL corrode, resulting in heat because of the resistance to current flow. Next thing ya know, you either melt wire, pop fuses - or burn a bike.

NOT on MY bike - if yer gonna take the time to do it, do it right or stay the hell out!!

 

where did you purchase the schematics for your 07 FLHTCU?