Okay....here's the pics....

[IMG]local://upfiles/19857/271501D8F9074AA58C6345829C589C3A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/19857/312DB4E6512B46B89BDE36E30B5B3FF7.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/19857/E6416045CCEC436788DAD3D2EFFA449B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks Mr TexasRedneck,
sure wish I had that info yesterday when I did the wally's oil temp gauge install.
Looks fairly straight forward if I can get the switch cover off.
Ride safe
Hinzy

 

Hey Redneck...
Using your splicing method, does the passing lights (aux light) come on with the ignition switch or are they controlled by the spot switch in the fairing dash housing. You know, the switch with the other three (spot, acc, cruise, spkr). I think it may be nice to have the lamps controlled by the SPOT switch as they are with the low beams on.

 

Yer quite welcome! The switch cover is a purty straightforward issue. Ya put the bars full left, put key in,move switch ta lock, depress all the way while pushing in spring detent on back of lock (you'll see a small, spring-loaded pin on the backside at about the 7 o'clock position from the key) and rotate counter-clockwise. Kinda sounds goofy, and it took a little "jigglin'", but all of a sudden things align an' the key assembly will rotate CCW, and you'll be able to remove the assembly. Watch as you lift it, though - the spring that pushes the assembly away will likely try to fall out.

Next, you need a (7/8", IIRC) open-end wrench to remove the nut that was under the key assembly. Pay attention to how things come apart - there's several pieces to remove once the nut is free. Now pull the plastic trim piece, one screw from each side, and figger out how ta git the switch cover wriggled out from 'tween the tank an' fairing.<G>

 

Well, to answer my own question...after looking at the diagram that kurtlange posted...the passing switch (spot) will control the passing lamps as it is getting its hot wire from the acc switch which is getting its hot wire from the fuse block.

 

Bear in mind that all I did was provide a different power supply to the switch - from the aux circuit vice the low beam circuit. So if the ignition switch is "on" or on "acc", you WILL have the spots on unless you turn the lamp switch "off" on the housing. That's why it's important to pay attention to the color coding - you want to tap the line BEFORE the aux switch to get the spot power, and BEFORE the spot switch so you can turn it off when desired.

 

Thanks for the pics and detailed description, looks like a job I can tackle.!

 

Yer quite welcome! It's pretty straightforward, an' once completed gives you GREAT lighting options, IMO. If you run into problems when ya go ta tackle it, give me a heads up via pm an' ah'll give ya mah cell number in case ya run into a problem.

 

I noticed this light situation shortly after bringing my '07 home, refering to not being able to have the spots and the high-beam on at the same time. Didn't like it, but do you think it was to protect the circuits from overload?Why else would they wire it this way?

 

having read through this I'm still not clear if the passing lamp switch still operates the lights once this wiring is completed. It's been awhile since I did mine so I don't remember wire color codes but when it's done your passing lamp switch should turn the passing lamps on and off.

Ref that ignition switch, it comes out a little hard but if you move the switch once it's apart it will go back in a lot harder. You can mess up the alignment & you won't be able to get it back in. The dealer has an alignment tool that has to be used when that happens... ask me how I know..