Has anyone purchased and used the CYCO cam tensioner pads and replacement tools that I see available on ebay ?

The claim is a better pad life. Is it true?

I need to be getting into the cam chest to check mine at 28k for peace of mind and as long as I am going to be in there thought to just replace. My last 04 at same miles had 15 or so percent wear but I do not want to take any chances. I could just open it and look.

Also I saw a short video where a smart fellow made a tool to remove and replace the inner shoe without pressing the cams out. Does anyone have the dimensions of this tool or if you have one can I rent it ?

Being out of work with a real job $ are tight but I do not want to have a grenade motor. I have been selling off my goodies slowly to fund this project.

I am going to install ez pushrods of some sort though in an effort to maybe quiet the valvetrain and maybe lifters as well.

Both 04 RK's I have owned had noisy valvetrains.

I purchased the bike with 17k on it not quite 2 years ago so I do ride it.

Thanks for any input you may have forum members.

 

I have the pads,Put them on when I did a cam change, I had got the tool to change the shoes. But not shure about doing them with the cams still pressed in ? They seem to be good so far. Im not shure how long these have been around ! But I only have about 1000mi on them so far !

 

I think the tensioners are a crap shoot. I had bought new tensioners for my softail at 30k. I had looked at them at 20k thought they would last till 30k at least. I opened the cam chest again at 30k. The shoes looked as good as they did at 20k. I think you just need to keep an eye on them. I would put money that they would have lasted till 50k before they needed changing.

 

I just pulled my tensioners out after 34K....they actually looked pretty good. I ordered the CYCO pads and I will be doing them this weekend.

I saw the video where the guy made the tool so I just copied his design.....I was able to get my inner tensioner off without any trouble at all.....I was actually astounded at how easy the tool made the removal. since I was going off what I saw, my tool isnt as efficient as his was....mine needed to go over center to compress the spring enough to make it removable.

I am having the cam bearings in the support plate done too....so I am gonna have the shop pop the tensioner back in....but I think the tool I made could get the job done. If you are wondering why I took the inner off......I took the tensioner off so I could install the CYCO pad before giving everything to the shop.

 

I was going to make the tool or borrow one but it seems pretty easy to just remove the cams and do it that way. I will be buying the CYCO set up I am pretty sure. I wish someone lived close so I could have gone in on the setup .

 

i just bougth a set opf the pads, they seem to be a better material to look at and feel. i will be crackign my cam chest next week as i an doing the cams, lifters, tensioners and all the bearings at teh same time

 

I bought them but never used them. The instructions are wrong & I have contacted them to let them know but last I checked they have not changed them. After I ordered them, ruined one of them , went & got a new one from HD & was about ready to go back together I noticed a bad spot on one of my cams so I went gear drive. They could give some more info in their instructions in my opinion. It is easier to get the cams out of the cam plate than to try to do it with them in. Use a propane torch & just heat up the plate & the cams will fall out. Do the same to install them. Does not take a lot of heat either.

Toby

 

Have them saved on my watch list. They appear to be soft delrin rather than the heated oil hardened delrin. Sure are cheap enough when you just replace shoe. Sure I could swap it out in my vice with a stack of steel flat bar without the special tool. However my originals have held up, so I will probably be inclined to just do the Harley part unless someone post some good facts here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Twin-...3518b9&vxp=mtr

 

what part of the instructions where wrong? isnt it just a matter of driving the oem pin out slideign the oem pad out of the arm, slide CYCO pad in and slide cyco pin in and peen the end of the pin over?

 

I would carefully grind the end of the pin so the pin falls out. if you try to just drive it out, you are depending on the shoe to support the plate on the first side that the pin goes thru. Going back together, just round the new pin with a small ball peen hammer or maybe even use a sharp center punch to put a circle of punches on the pin face near the outer edge.