Ordered JRI A 13" from Howard...instructions complicated!
#1
Ordered JRI A 13" from Howard...instructions complicated!
I ordered the Christmas special JRI A 13" inch shocks from Howard at Motorcycle Metal.(Good deal $531 since I paid with a credit card) He sent the instruction's for mounting and adjusting the shock in a e-mail. The instructions look complicated! I realize most instructions are usually more complicated than just looking at the project and figuring out how to complete it. Has anybody put JRI on their bike and how hard is it. The second question is How hard is it to adjust shocks from solo to 2 up (OL weigh's about 125). Do you need a spanner or do you get one with the shocks. The instruction show a caliper from Harbor Freight in it. And lastly do you really have to adjust the shocks every time you change from solo to 2up? Anybody had experience with this! Thanks.
#2
Hi Mike. The directions come with pictures of every step of the way. Amy points to everything needed to do and she does them on her off time. I have a video I made at the same time but have not had the time to edit it.
Spanner wrench: No you do not need one as I do not use them even though I have several. Just lift the bike off of the ground for the initial set up and separate the two nuts by hand. Grab both the bottom nut and the spring and turn it in the direction you need to go. When done, turn the lock (2nd) nut down to come in contact with the bottom nut acting as a jam nut.
The rest I will leave to the members.
Spanner wrench: No you do not need one as I do not use them even though I have several. Just lift the bike off of the ground for the initial set up and separate the two nuts by hand. Grab both the bottom nut and the spring and turn it in the direction you need to go. When done, turn the lock (2nd) nut down to come in contact with the bottom nut acting as a jam nut.
The rest I will leave to the members.
#3
#4
I have no experience with these particular shocks...
Is there something different about them, or are they just shocks?
I can go out in the garage right now, change my shocks and come back in 30 minutes later job done. That's counting putting my bike up on the lift, removing the bags, getting the blackjack out to raise the rear end do the job, put everything back together, take the bike off the lift, smoke a cigarette and have a cup of coffee.
Shocks are literally 4 bolts. And they are easy to get to.
Is there something different about them, or are they just shocks?
I can go out in the garage right now, change my shocks and come back in 30 minutes later job done. That's counting putting my bike up on the lift, removing the bags, getting the blackjack out to raise the rear end do the job, put everything back together, take the bike off the lift, smoke a cigarette and have a cup of coffee.
Shocks are literally 4 bolts. And they are easy to get to.
#5
I use a spanner to loosen the jam nut then turn by hand. The shocks are pretty simple to install on the bike and then you need to set sag, once you have the shocks on the bike the instructions will make sense, you will set sag for 1up and 2up, you will have to change the adjustment as needed but I can tell you that even set for 2up riding 1up its a vast improvement so if I know I will be riding 2up a lot I won't bother changing it for when I head to work and back I just deal with it. My sag difference was somewhere around 12 turns between 1up and 2up if I remember correctly
#6
Call Howard before you begin the install. Call Howard before you begin the install. And lastly, call Howard before you begin the install. He will walk you through the install process.
In all seriousness, if you have ANY questions at all, call Howard. He wants to make sure you understand the process and don't screw anything up. The JRi's are awesome shocks, provided that operator headspace and timing don't mess 'em up.
His instructions cover everything. Use a long straight edge to determine and correct any gaps between the frame and swing arm. Do it for both sides.
The huge Harbor Freight calipers that his instructions mention just make it easy to measure the length of the shock in the various configurations (full-extension, rider onboard, etc.). A neat "trick" that Howard's instructions mention is to rotate the shock mounting bolts so that you can easily and consistently measure from flat to flat. I bought it, trained my then 9-yr old son in its' use so I could sit on the bike while the OL held the front forks, and presto. Well, I did the reading of the vernier. A secure front wheel chock would eliminate the need for a third person, but I digress...
Overall task/purpose is to set the spring pre-load so that the shock is compressed about 33% when you're sitting on the bike, feet up, with your normal riding gear on board. You know the shock stroke or range of motion (X), you measure the shock length at full-extension (Y), and you measure the shock length when you're sitting on the bike (Z). You want Y - Z = X/3. That leaves 2/3rds range of motion for compression, and 1/3rd for extension. Adjust the spring pre-load collar (of both shocks equally) until this simple equation is satisfied.
This means that you'll have to do the same process over again if you ride two-up, as I understand it. Different spring pre-loads for different loadings.
Regarding a spanner, I don't believe your JRi shocks will come with one. And you shouldn't need one. Turning the spring pre-load collar was readily accomplished by hand, at least for mine.
Hope some of this rambling helps...
In all seriousness, if you have ANY questions at all, call Howard. He wants to make sure you understand the process and don't screw anything up. The JRi's are awesome shocks, provided that operator headspace and timing don't mess 'em up.
His instructions cover everything. Use a long straight edge to determine and correct any gaps between the frame and swing arm. Do it for both sides.
The huge Harbor Freight calipers that his instructions mention just make it easy to measure the length of the shock in the various configurations (full-extension, rider onboard, etc.). A neat "trick" that Howard's instructions mention is to rotate the shock mounting bolts so that you can easily and consistently measure from flat to flat. I bought it, trained my then 9-yr old son in its' use so I could sit on the bike while the OL held the front forks, and presto. Well, I did the reading of the vernier. A secure front wheel chock would eliminate the need for a third person, but I digress...
Overall task/purpose is to set the spring pre-load so that the shock is compressed about 33% when you're sitting on the bike, feet up, with your normal riding gear on board. You know the shock stroke or range of motion (X), you measure the shock length at full-extension (Y), and you measure the shock length when you're sitting on the bike (Z). You want Y - Z = X/3. That leaves 2/3rds range of motion for compression, and 1/3rd for extension. Adjust the spring pre-load collar (of both shocks equally) until this simple equation is satisfied.
This means that you'll have to do the same process over again if you ride two-up, as I understand it. Different spring pre-loads for different loadings.
Regarding a spanner, I don't believe your JRi shocks will come with one. And you shouldn't need one. Turning the spring pre-load collar was readily accomplished by hand, at least for mine.
Hope some of this rambling helps...
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