I'm almost ready to do cams, just waiting on a back ordered tool. I was intending on reusing my stock lifters, but I've got about 11K on my bike, and have no idea what my lifters look like. The Gaterman's seem to be highly recommended, but I have a couple of questions. Since I'm reusing my stock pushrods, are the 1023's a direct replacement? Where's a good place to source them? Any opinions are welcomed.

 

http://gatermanproducts.com/
386-253-1899
Info@gatermanproducts.com
Call them or e-mail them, they will give you the information you are looking for.

 

Why would you go thru all that trouble to reuse the stock pushrods? Cut em out, put in the adjustables and get rid of some of the clatter. I would reuse the stock lifters in lieu of the stock pushrods.

2010 Limited with some stuff

 

 

Email Gary garybutler@optusnet.com.au and he will have you PayPal him payment and will get the lifters sent to you. I have a set coming as we speak. His prices are very good.

 

Maybe I'm just lucky, but I don't have excessive valvetrain noise. My rear rocker box is seeping a tiny bit of oil so I need to replace gaskets anyway, and I save some bucks on adjustables.

 

I am in a similar boat. The Gatorman 1023's are stock type replacement and work with OEM pushrods. I am in the middle of collecting parts still to swap in a set of Andrews 48H's. Purchased the lifters, cams, and a few other parts from Jim at Independent Cycles in Tulsa OK. Good fella to deal with and haven't had any problems.

My bike has some serious valvetrain noise which has 31k miles on it unlike the quiet valvetrain that it had at 14k miles. I am sticking with 1-pc pushrods as well, will probably replace the oem pushrods with Smith's but need to get into the rocker boxes to look for possible interference and anything that would cause extra noise.

 

Lifters are lifters as far as pushrod length. What determines if you can reuse stock length pushrods is the distance from the rocker arm to the base circle of the cam (shaved head = shorter pushrod, smaller cam base circle = longer pushrod, and of course there are combinations of cams/headwork).

I agree with the others that say cut the stock rods and use adjustables. Costs a little more (so that may be a factor), but saves quite a bit of time (and possible issues) with the partial disassembly of the top end.

 

If you are chasing valve train noise I can save you some time, money, and frustration. Use the Gaterman's with tapered adjustable pushrods. Don't pay any attention to how Gaterman says to adjust them, do what ever the pushrod manufacturer recommends and go .020-.030" more than that. On SE pushrods that means 3 full revolutions, not the 2 1/2 called for. Replace both chains when you do your cams, get the Zipper's Redshift dual cam chain tensioners and the Axtell oil by-pass system. I would just cut the old pushrods out and not bother the upper end. If its not leaking it shouldn't need anything at 31K. Also check the crank for runout. Too much runout can translate into noise and oil pump failure. If you do this you should be able to ride a long time with no appreciable noise.

 

I put Gatermans, the Axtell bypass, and S&S rods in when I did cams last spring. I agree on going an extra half turn on the pushrods as it made a world of difference.