Going through this now. .using the Pit posse tool off Amazon. Real pain to remove my bearings. I stripped the tool out, they're apparently sending a replacement. I had graphite lubricant on threads shoulda used grease.

To 'upgrade' the tool to the same as Georges or JIMS, I ordered that thrust bearing for the installer. It's an SKF 603 "NICE" bearing. About $2. Should save the installers threads but will use grease there as well. Also ordered the 25mm installer pilot Lowcountry Joe mentioned. Total cost is around $89 Pit posse, $2 bearing, $45 GG pilot = $136. If I had to do it again probably get that Heartland tool although I think I'll have the same setup for less $$$ the way I went. .and if Pit Posse sends me a whole new tool I'll have a spare.

 

It may be obvious to those more experienced than I am, I don't see what that "tool" pushes or pulls against to remove the bearing. I am able to see how it grips the inner bore.

 

I was wondering the same thing and stared at the pic a minute. I think it is passing through the bearing shown and expanding on the bearing on the other side as you tighten the nut. Then I assume you whack it with a hammer?

 

NO! NO! No whacking. Just tighten the big nut, the one against the yellow washer in this pic, and it just pulls the bearing out. If it's gets really tight, I suppose you could tap the end, but be real careful you don't mess the threads up on the end of the shaft; I've never had to tap it.



I don't have the thrust bearing some folks have with their pullers, but I grease the threads and washer liberally, and it's worked fine. I also put a thin coat of anti-seize on the new bearing's outer race and in the wheel to ward off corrosion and hopefully help it slide out easier without galling the wheel bore for the next bearing change; the bearing is tight enough in there it won't spin. If it isn't tight... you need a new wheel.

If you're wondering about the long shaft in the kit, that's for pulling the new bearing back in. Not the best pic of doing that -