My evo had tapered rollers so no experience with this. But I've replace many-a dirt bike wheel bearing by using a brass drift to drive them out from behind and a well sized socket for installation. So are we saying this "Fred Flintstone" procedure won't work with Harley brgs??

 

You can do it, videos on youtube showing guys doing it, but you're going to **** that first bearing in the bore, even if just a tiny bit, when you hit the edges with a drift. Second one, if you're really good and lined up perfect, might drive out straight with a socket seated evenly, but I doubt you'd be able to hit the socket just perfect, either. Probably could get away with it once or twice, but do enough bearings that way, and one day the bearing won't be a press fit anymore. I read about guys using locktite on loose wheel bearings... that's not something I'd want to do 70mph on.

I changed my dirt bike bearings last summer with a slide hammer blind bearing puller, but those bearings weren't half the size of the Harley bearings and popped out pretty easy. Would've used the pit posse, but it's specific for Harleys, doesn't fit the little metrics.

Another thing about changing bearings - I always coat the wheel bore and outside race with anti-seize; I'd think it helps avoid galling the bore, and is good stuff to prevent corrosion. I've seen some nasty corrosion on aluminum against a steel part. A good wheel will be tight enough there's no worry about the race spinning in it.

 

Wont work to take them out., but you can still install with an old socket. But why take the chance? These install / remove tools are cheaper than one visit to the dealer.

Change your bearings every other tire chhange.

 

Just thought of this - replaced the spoke wheel on my 1200 last year, saw that the weld was cracking on the inside when I put a new tire on. The new wheel came with bearings installed, pulled the plastic seal up to check, and they had plastic cages. Brand new wheels and changed bearings already; I'm not going to use wheel bearings that don't have metal ball cages. Wonder how many dealer tire changers check welds and inside bearings...

 

Change wheel brgs every other tire change!! Dang!! Doesn't Harley still use Timken brgs! Isn't that a bit over kill? Cheez, I usually get 2-3 years out of KTM dirt bike brgs and they occasionally get submerged in water. Imold, is that little guy working on a rim with drum brakes??

 

Yep, little Yammie 225 enduro style, with a single disk front. Long as you don't soak it in creeks, the drum works fine back there. Probably never wear it out, either. Got it cheap, couldn't give me another one, too flimsy, have any fun and you break it.

 

I've been using that same E Bay item repeatedly for several years now, on both my 3/4, 1, and 25mm bearing with no problems with the collets whatsoever. It's a good, functional tool for the money. And it has held up great!!

 

I wish I would have bought this kit (Heartland). You need those little "cutout notches" for some Harley wheels. I bought a cheaper kit and I had to grind those notches to make it work. Also nice to have a dedicated 25mm installer and the bearing. Looks like a great kit for the money!

 

I just borrow one from autozone or any other parts stores that lend out tools for free, it worked great for me. Put the new bearings in the freezer and they practically slide right in.

 

Hi,
if you are going to replace the bearings with new ones (like i just have) you can doit easily with the following;
OUT - use a 24mm flooring bolt - see photo.

IN - a peice of 10mm allthread and some good thick 50mm washers.

Did mine with no problems and the parts cost me about £8 ($12).
Just make sure everything is square and lubed when you put the new bearings back in.

Rowle - UK