2014 Se Compensator
#33
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ldhippie View Post
Man, I replaced my original with the SE one about 16K ago and it is making that terrible "knocking" again! What is the best option????
The "new" compensator is the same exact one they have been putting on since the 103s came out except they have that ridiculous glue in oil director thingy that everyone is writing about. Really? A glue on part for a 100hp power transmission component?! It is the same piece of crap that has been failing since the start. Mine started making the noise at 1400 mi. and the MOCO said it was "normal". WTF! I'm putting up with the noise until Darkhorse comes out with theirs. Why waste time and fluid replacing a defective part with the identical part w/ a bell and whistle[/QUOTE].
Hey Folks;
My contacts at the dealers are starting to let me know of some of the warranty issues and it seems to be same failures with excessive wear and the red fretting. Nothing new with the MoCo saying "it is normal". After all how could they admit a short fall so soon. As I have said all along very little oil ever gets to the center of the comp between the cover and comp. Can't explain why some do better than others but this has been the same from the beginning in 2007. What the MoCo has done in their redesign would have been a full fix had they not eliminated vital components to the functionality of the design. Adding a generous supply of oil to the spokes creates the large amount of splash which fully migrates into the comp and lubes the spokes, cam, cam splines and provides the needed splash for the MoCo's little tray to feed their intake. Still there is the concerns about the radial roller bearing and collection of debris in the passages and slowing or worst case stopping oil flow. My contacts did not have the needed detail of what was found just noisy and they will not fix under warranty. We are just going to have to be patent for the information to be made public. That will come form these forums not the MoCo as was the past case. So keep the info flowing it is vitally important to everyone.
I to would like to see the Darkhorse guys over come the engineering hurtles they are facing (if anyone can they can) and have a solid long term dependable option for us. As for the solid sprocket that is a BAD idea, the crank can not take the loads and your trouble really starts then.
Keep the shinny side up all
Richard
__________________
Originally Posted by 0ldhippie View Post
Man, I replaced my original with the SE one about 16K ago and it is making that terrible "knocking" again! What is the best option????
The "new" compensator is the same exact one they have been putting on since the 103s came out except they have that ridiculous glue in oil director thingy that everyone is writing about. Really? A glue on part for a 100hp power transmission component?! It is the same piece of crap that has been failing since the start. Mine started making the noise at 1400 mi. and the MOCO said it was "normal". WTF! I'm putting up with the noise until Darkhorse comes out with theirs. Why waste time and fluid replacing a defective part with the identical part w/ a bell and whistle[/QUOTE].
Hey Folks;
My contacts at the dealers are starting to let me know of some of the warranty issues and it seems to be same failures with excessive wear and the red fretting. Nothing new with the MoCo saying "it is normal". After all how could they admit a short fall so soon. As I have said all along very little oil ever gets to the center of the comp between the cover and comp. Can't explain why some do better than others but this has been the same from the beginning in 2007. What the MoCo has done in their redesign would have been a full fix had they not eliminated vital components to the functionality of the design. Adding a generous supply of oil to the spokes creates the large amount of splash which fully migrates into the comp and lubes the spokes, cam, cam splines and provides the needed splash for the MoCo's little tray to feed their intake. Still there is the concerns about the radial roller bearing and collection of debris in the passages and slowing or worst case stopping oil flow. My contacts did not have the needed detail of what was found just noisy and they will not fix under warranty. We are just going to have to be patent for the information to be made public. That will come form these forums not the MoCo as was the past case. So keep the info flowing it is vitally important to everyone.
I to would like to see the Darkhorse guys over come the engineering hurtles they are facing (if anyone can they can) and have a solid long term dependable option for us. As for the solid sprocket that is a BAD idea, the crank can not take the loads and your trouble really starts then.
Keep the shinny side up all
Richard
__________________
#34
The new comp is the same one that is in the 2014 models. It is NOT the same one that was in the 103s before the 2014s. I installed the new version in my Tri Glide about 2500 miles ago. Opened it up to see how things looked. Everything looked fine. NO rattle on start up or shut down either. Plastic funnel still where it was supposed to be and looked like plenty of oil to the comp.
#35
I have installed the BDL comp that is a 100.00 cheaper than the SE one, and so far is working like a charm have only around 1200 miles or so but all is well so far. I gave up on darkhorse's unit, been in testing a real long time, sometimes, that is a bad thing. also to those that are still running the factory chain tensioner, might want to rethink that, hard on primary brgs
#36
I looked at the design of the comp last night in my shop manual. I guess the cam goes in and out and the spring washers allow for a small amount of play, with that pin bearing in play as it rotates.
Seems like small dinky parts hanging onto a 100 ft. lb. torque shaft. I guess the rear wheel in hub rubber pieces/compensators shares some of the loading with the crankshaft/comp.
When they fail what actually breaks, or does it just make lots of noise?
Seems like small dinky parts hanging onto a 100 ft. lb. torque shaft. I guess the rear wheel in hub rubber pieces/compensators shares some of the loading with the crankshaft/comp.
When they fail what actually breaks, or does it just make lots of noise?
#37
Don't know what the results will be from a comp roller assembly disintegrating will be. Still waiting for a report. It will not be mine for sure. currently looking into best option for replacing with a non-mechanical or combination metallic/non-metallic thrusts. Have several inquiries out with company engineers and hope to have answers in a few days then install and run a few thousand miles and have a look.
I tried the BDL and was not a good experience for me. Talked to a number of folks that have and are running them and get mixed responses. So to each their on here.
Richard
I tried the BDL and was not a good experience for me. Talked to a number of folks that have and are running them and get mixed responses. So to each their on here.
Richard
#38
I looked at the design of the comp last night in my shop manual. I guess the cam goes in and out and the spring washers allow for a small amount of play, with that pin bearing in play as it rotates.
Seems like small dinky parts hanging onto a 100 ft. lb. torque shaft. I guess the rear wheel in hub rubber pieces/compensators shares some of the loading with the crankshaft/comp.
When they fail what actually breaks, or does it just make lots of noise?
Seems like small dinky parts hanging onto a 100 ft. lb. torque shaft. I guess the rear wheel in hub rubber pieces/compensators shares some of the loading with the crankshaft/comp.
When they fail what actually breaks, or does it just make lots of noise?
The second major issue, and then most important one is that the the surfaces of all the parts of the compensating sprocket are a rotating and centrifugal force group of parts that are flinging whatever lubricating oil off of themselves and are not sufficiently lubricating moving and sliding surfaces allowing accelerated wearing, metal fretting, heat and noise.
The Moco has redesigned this group of parts a couple times now and has not successfully fixed the major engineering debacle.
There are others in our industry that are working toward alleviating us of this nuisance, but is taking time and money.
#39
Since they still sell the other components just go out and buy a good adhesive from Loctite or some other high end manufacturer. There are glues out there stronger than steel these days. Your only holding a light piece of plastic in place. Clean the area completely and glue it in.
http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...roduct.xml/304
http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...roduct.xml/304
SugsPa
#40
Compensaver pictures
Got my compensaver in from Steve at GMR Perdormance. Here are a few photos of the unit. Has o-ring seals around the bolts that hold it to the inner primary. Install instructions are here: http://www.gmrperformance.com/installation/