Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

2014 Se Compensator

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 03-14-2014 | 08:44 AM
fragmentum's Avatar
fragmentum
Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Default

Originally Posted by x1rider
I'm adding a Compensaver oiling tray to my 2014 SE compensator, not taking any chance.
What did this tray device cost you?
 
  #32  
Old 03-14-2014 | 09:11 AM
x1rider's Avatar
x1rider
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 269
Likes: 5
Default

Originally Posted by fragmentum
What did this tray device cost you?
I'm still waiting on it
 
  #33  
Old 03-14-2014 | 10:43 AM
RichardK's Avatar
RichardK
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Default

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0ldhippie View Post

Man, I replaced my original with the SE one about 16K ago and it is making that terrible "knocking" again! What is the best option????

The "new" compensator is the same exact one they have been putting on since the 103s came out except they have that ridiculous glue in oil director thingy that everyone is writing about. Really? A glue on part for a 100hp power transmission component?! It is the same piece of crap that has been failing since the start. Mine started making the noise at 1400 mi. and the MOCO said it was "normal". WTF! I'm putting up with the noise until Darkhorse comes out with theirs. Why waste time and fluid replacing a defective part with the identical part w/ a bell and whistle[/QUOTE].

Hey Folks;
My contacts at the dealers are starting to let me know of some of the warranty issues and it seems to be same failures with excessive wear and the red fretting. Nothing new with the MoCo saying "it is normal". After all how could they admit a short fall so soon. As I have said all along very little oil ever gets to the center of the comp between the cover and comp. Can't explain why some do better than others but this has been the same from the beginning in 2007. What the MoCo has done in their redesign would have been a full fix had they not eliminated vital components to the functionality of the design. Adding a generous supply of oil to the spokes creates the large amount of splash which fully migrates into the comp and lubes the spokes, cam, cam splines and provides the needed splash for the MoCo's little tray to feed their intake. Still there is the concerns about the radial roller bearing and collection of debris in the passages and slowing or worst case stopping oil flow. My contacts did not have the needed detail of what was found just noisy and they will not fix under warranty. We are just going to have to be patent for the information to be made public. That will come form these forums not the MoCo as was the past case. So keep the info flowing it is vitally important to everyone.
I to would like to see the Darkhorse guys over come the engineering hurtles they are facing (if anyone can they can) and have a solid long term dependable option for us. As for the solid sprocket that is a BAD idea, the crank can not take the loads and your trouble really starts then.

Keep the shinny side up all
Richard

__________________
 
  #34  
Old 03-14-2014 | 11:02 AM
RAP's Avatar
RAP
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 5
From: IOWA
Default

The new comp is the same one that is in the 2014 models. It is NOT the same one that was in the 103s before the 2014s. I installed the new version in my Tri Glide about 2500 miles ago. Opened it up to see how things looked. Everything looked fine. NO rattle on start up or shut down either. Plastic funnel still where it was supposed to be and looked like plenty of oil to the comp.
 
  #35  
Old 03-14-2014 | 12:00 PM
harleycharlie1992's Avatar
harleycharlie1992
Unofficial HDF Chaplain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,969
Likes: 16,182
From: san diego
Default

I have installed the BDL comp that is a 100.00 cheaper than the SE one, and so far is working like a charm have only around 1200 miles or so but all is well so far. I gave up on darkhorse's unit, been in testing a real long time, sometimes, that is a bad thing. also to those that are still running the factory chain tensioner, might want to rethink that, hard on primary brgs
 
  #36  
Old 03-15-2014 | 10:48 AM
oakmossy's Avatar
oakmossy
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,920
Likes: 77
From: dallas
Default

I looked at the design of the comp last night in my shop manual. I guess the cam goes in and out and the spring washers allow for a small amount of play, with that pin bearing in play as it rotates.
Seems like small dinky parts hanging onto a 100 ft. lb. torque shaft. I guess the rear wheel in hub rubber pieces/compensators shares some of the loading with the crankshaft/comp.
When they fail what actually breaks, or does it just make lots of noise?
 
  #37  
Old 03-15-2014 | 11:34 AM
RichardK's Avatar
RichardK
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Default

Don't know what the results will be from a comp roller assembly disintegrating will be. Still waiting for a report. It will not be mine for sure. currently looking into best option for replacing with a non-mechanical or combination metallic/non-metallic thrusts. Have several inquiries out with company engineers and hope to have answers in a few days then install and run a few thousand miles and have a look.

I tried the BDL and was not a good experience for me. Talked to a number of folks that have and are running them and get mixed responses. So to each their on here.

Richard
 
  #38  
Old 03-15-2014 | 09:06 PM
fragmentum's Avatar
fragmentum
Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Default

Originally Posted by oakmossy
I looked at the design of the comp last night in my shop manual. I guess the cam goes in and out and the spring washers allow for a small amount of play, with that pin bearing in play as it rotates.
Seems like small dinky parts hanging onto a 100 ft. lb. torque shaft. I guess the rear wheel in hub rubber pieces/compensators shares some of the loading with the crankshaft/comp.
When they fail what actually breaks, or does it just make lots of noise?
You are correct in your description of the Screamin' Eagle Compensator operation, in large part. The sliding cam is the only component that moves in and out under the spring pack pressure. In theory the operation is sound and it is all held in place and on the main shaft with the one 175# torqued screw. The two major problems are that the sliding surfaces of the sliding cam and the spokes of the sprocket are not machined to smooth finish, are rough castings and cause metal debris to form in the primary cavity as they work against each other. This metal debris is mixed in the lubricating oil and is then distributed throughout the primary including the clutch, stator, rotor, chain and everything else inside the primary compartment. I have been using a Dimple Magnetic drain plugs to reduce as much of this debris as possible.
The second major issue, and then most important one is that the the surfaces of all the parts of the compensating sprocket are a rotating and centrifugal force group of parts that are flinging whatever lubricating oil off of themselves and are not sufficiently lubricating moving and sliding surfaces allowing accelerated wearing, metal fretting, heat and noise.
The Moco has redesigned this group of parts a couple times now and has not successfully fixed the major engineering debacle.
There are others in our industry that are working toward alleviating us of this nuisance, but is taking time and money.
 
  #39  
Old 03-18-2014 | 11:43 AM
SugsPa's Avatar
SugsPa
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 945
Likes: 121
From: Where The Bluegrass Grows
Default

Originally Posted by Rickr01
Since they still sell the other components just go out and buy a good adhesive from Loctite or some other high end manufacturer. There are glues out there stronger than steel these days. Your only holding a light piece of plastic in place. Clean the area completely and glue it in.
http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...roduct.xml/304
Has anyone tried J-B Weld, or do you think it would be temp and oil resistant enough to work?

SugsPa
 
  #40  
Old 03-22-2014 | 01:35 PM
fragmentum's Avatar
fragmentum
Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Default Compensaver pictures

Got my compensaver in from Steve at GMR Perdormance. Here are a few photos of the unit. Has o-ring seals around the bolts that hold it to the inner primary. Install instructions are here: http://www.gmrperformance.com/installation/







 


Quick Reply: 2014 Se Compensator



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:16 AM.