2014 Se Compensator
#22
New Castle H-D sells the adhesive and caulk gun adapter needed to apply it.
https://shop.newcastlehd.com/
Part numbers are 11100088 for the adhesive, 11100075 for the adapter.
https://shop.newcastlehd.com/
Part numbers are 11100088 for the adhesive, 11100075 for the adapter.
#25
#26
I just installed the new 2014 SE compensator on my bike. Haven't buttoned it up yet, due to working and weather, but thought I would show some photos of the finished product. I did the 2 part adhesive install of the oil deflector on the cover and after it dried, that glue is harder than the plastic deflector. As long as the surfaces were clean and oil free and the proper application of adhesive was made I don't see how the deflector will ever come off of there. When I pulled my old compensator, which was the previous SE version I installed several years ago, I found that red rust type crap on the inner bore. It did have oil in there too, but was showing some slight wear also, but not near as bad as others that were pictured on other threads. I use the Syn3 oil so maybe that helped, I don't know. Had about 8-9000 miles on the old SE comp. The auto chain adjuster, which I had upgraded to the latest version several years ago, shows nearly no wear and the chain was not too tight or too loose so it appears to be working fine. I also changed the clutch spring to a heavier one since I also put in Andrews 48H cams.
Installed new SE compensator
Cover with deflector
Notice the bead of adhesive around the edges of the plastic deflector.
Installed new SE compensator
Cover with deflector
Notice the bead of adhesive around the edges of the plastic deflector.
#29
Unless it turns out the the hub oiling holes should have been made a little bigger, this one looks good to me. I have over 45,000 on the previous SE comp but I did the shade tree modifications to mine to get oil into the hub bore. That is why I believe this new design should do the job. The little plastic funnel is strictly to catch and drip sprayed oil into the hub, it is NOT part of the drive train. Casting or machining one out of aluminum or stainless steel would do nothing but add expense. I will leave it to those with more mechanical experience and knowledge than I have to make the final determination, but the way I see it, the load never comes off the needle bearing thrust bearing and the little lube funnel should keep it well lubed along with the hub. The concern about the needles getting loose seems a bit unrealistic to me.