I bet not! That's a great $$$ to remove a CAT!
I drilled mine out and I had regrets about 15 mins after I started drilling!
Its gone but don't look cool like Power Duals. If I was going to throw money at a head pipe I sure wouldn't want it to look stock when I was done!

 

Yes, but you'll have to remove the muffler.

If your drill bit can reach the far end of the cat from the business end of the header, then it can be done.

Can it be done right? Well, that depends upon the skill and patience of the guy/gal holding the drill!

 

That's a reasonable choice. I have one the regular stainless (not ceramic) FM headers. It's nicely built, light, welds look super, O2 bungs in at the right depth and at just the right angle, and the exhaust collars are much more robust than the thin-walled collars on the stock pipe. You can probably sell your stock pipe for around $100.

Remember to change exhaust port gaskets when you go in with the new header. Use the regular OEM exhaust port gaskets, NOT the screamin eagle gaskets. Put them in the freezer the night before to shrink them ever so slightly to allow easier installation. Install flat side in. You always want a new gasket with a new header pipe so it will make its own air-tight seal to your exhaust port.

Before removing your old header, spray your exhaust port studs with wd 40 the night before or some penetrating oil spray. This will help ensure that the nuts will back off without creating any binding and possible damage or twisting-off of the actual stud. If you break an exhaust port stud, then you really have a job in front of you. So take the time to spray it down the night before, let it soak all night, and you will be fine. I always go back with new exhaust stud nuts too. The front top nut seems to be the most difficult to get to. I have found that it is very easy to get to from the left-front side of the bike. Trying to access it from the right-front side of the bike gets tempermental at best. Buy some wobble extensions and wobble sockets. They will be your friend. Also, use a quality torque wrench and don't guess at the nut torque. After 500 miles or so, re-torque because the heat cycles will sometimes cause them to loosen a tad. Once you tighten them up again at 500, they will be good for the long haul.