OK, just wanted to be sure. You really should avoid statements saying the someone said something that they didn't say; doesn't come across real well and is distracting to the subject matter being discussed in the thread. As a matter of fact, if you don't have anything to say that directly addresses the OP's original question, you probably shouldn't post anything.

 

Most vendors, if they are good vendors, will ask what your crank runout is before they sell you gear cams. If it is over 0.003" then most will not sell you them or strongly discourage it. I would take their advice since it it based on a lot more field installs, and follow-up issues.

I really thought I wanted gear cams as well and wanted to go down that route. I talked to a lot of different vendors and after measuring my crank run-out to around 0.0045-.005 they discouraged going that route.

I also know a friend who did put gear drive cams in without measuring his crank runout and he had issues. He ended up having to tear his crank out and "truing" it up.

Really don't think you will see much difference in performance. Might have slightly less noise but really negligible.

My suggestion would be to stick with chain cams, put in new Zippers hydraulic shoes, save your money and don't worry about it for 40k miles or so.

I think you really need to ask yourself, why do you want gear cams vs chain cams. What is your end goal and objectives. What do you expect to achieve from gear cams that you can not get chain cams. Is the extra cost worth it?

 

I think I will go Gear Drive - I have a 2000 Fatboy and a 2001 Road King. Both should have acceptable runout.
$600 for gears and Andrews 26G cams; probably need to add a few bucks for gaskets and stuff.

What oil pump should be installed when using gear drive? Any particular brand?

 

The OEM pump is adequate; only other choice is aftermarket as neither of the later SE pumps are compatible with the early cam plate. Upgrade the inner cam bearings as well. Consider the Axtell pressure bypass hardware to use with the OEM plate.

http://www.axtellsales.com/Axtell-bypass-system.html

 

I really don't get that oil bypass thing, not sure why we need it. Isn't the stock spring OK? It's just a spring for $85?

 

Beg to differ. While I agree that any crank can be tweaked, one is much less likely to be tweaked if it is made in the USA, hot forged and fitted between the cases with at Timken tapered bearing than a made in China cast crank fitted between the cases between two roller bearings. So it does matter what year crank one has; the bottom end of a 2002 model is near bullet proof and will take a lot of abuse. The MoCo outsourced crank manufacture to either China or Taiwan for the '07 model year. You may not be aware but that was the same year the crank runout spec for warranty purposes was increased from .003" to .012". I have no hard data but there is anecdotal data on this and other HD forums that indicates the '07 model year had a higher number of crank failures than in any of the previous model years.
Posted by djl

I have to disagree with you about where HD engines are manufactured, including the crank, the bearing made be made in China or someplace else, but the crank is made in the USA right in the factory outside of Milwaukee, WI.

 

Someone put a lot of effort into getting that spring just right! So if you buy the kit you are paying for development time, as well as the various parts illustrated in the link that djl posted.

 

I don't have the bypass spring. And I still have the original oil pump and cam plate on my '00 Road Glide, and I have gear drives ( Andrews 26 running stock pushrods.)

I also have over 140,000 miles on a dependable daily rider that still runs great, so I don't think I ever needed any of those "upgrades" (and suspect most that did buy them didn't either.)