To go gear driven or stock on cams
#11
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#12
It is highly unlikely your crank run-out will meet .0035 or less required to go gears. Replace the original shoes with Zippers/Red Shift tensioners.
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#15
.003" is max runout recommended to run gear driven cams.
The thing I don't like about the later OEM cam plate is that the outer cam journals run in the parent material of the cam plate. I have seen a few that showed excessive wear after performance cams were installed; not many but enough that I would not run performance cams in the later OEM cam plate in one of my bikes but that's just a personal thing; plenty are running performance cams in the later OEM plate apparently with no issues.
If the OP decides to upgrade the cam chest he could do it with the 25282-11 kit with billet plate and higher capacity oil pump or gear drive, if the selected cams are available in gear drive. Gear drive setup would cost a bit more, so, assuming runout is within limits, it's a personal choice. Certainly more work to setup; the 25282-11 kit is caveman simple to install.
No worries on lifters. With roller lifters it is not necessary to install new lifters with new cams; again, a personal choice. If the lifters have 35K mile or so on them, replacing them would be a smart thing to do. No need to break the bank on lifters, CompCams VThunder lifters and the new CYCO lifters are less than $60 a set to your door. JMHO.
The thing I don't like about the later OEM cam plate is that the outer cam journals run in the parent material of the cam plate. I have seen a few that showed excessive wear after performance cams were installed; not many but enough that I would not run performance cams in the later OEM cam plate in one of my bikes but that's just a personal thing; plenty are running performance cams in the later OEM plate apparently with no issues.
If the OP decides to upgrade the cam chest he could do it with the 25282-11 kit with billet plate and higher capacity oil pump or gear drive, if the selected cams are available in gear drive. Gear drive setup would cost a bit more, so, assuming runout is within limits, it's a personal choice. Certainly more work to setup; the 25282-11 kit is caveman simple to install.
No worries on lifters. With roller lifters it is not necessary to install new lifters with new cams; again, a personal choice. If the lifters have 35K mile or so on them, replacing them would be a smart thing to do. No need to break the bank on lifters, CompCams VThunder lifters and the new CYCO lifters are less than $60 a set to your door. JMHO.
Last edited by djl; 01-20-2014 at 11:18 AM.
#17
#18
#19
(EDIT : I meant three thousandths below ,not thirty!)
.0030" ( thirty thousandths,) is the original acceptable run out on the 99 -02 twin cams with the hot forged crank supported by the Timken Left taperes bearings per Harley Davidson. Somehow (?) Harley now says that the weaker, later cranks have a new tolerance of .012" ( 4 times as great.)
But I do have the good motor, so I have gear drive cams installed Jan '11 at 81,000 miles and still going strong 3 years later at 140,000 plus, and still running the original cam plate and oil pump.
I wouldn't have it any other way with my bike but later models would do well to stay with the hydraulic tensioners IMO when doing a cam upgrade.
.0030" ( thirty thousandths,) is the original acceptable run out on the 99 -02 twin cams with the hot forged crank supported by the Timken Left taperes bearings per Harley Davidson. Somehow (?) Harley now says that the weaker, later cranks have a new tolerance of .012" ( 4 times as great.)
But I do have the good motor, so I have gear drive cams installed Jan '11 at 81,000 miles and still going strong 3 years later at 140,000 plus, and still running the original cam plate and oil pump.
I wouldn't have it any other way with my bike but later models would do well to stay with the hydraulic tensioners IMO when doing a cam upgrade.
Last edited by Stiggy; 01-04-2014 at 07:19 PM.
#20