Can you tell difference between ABS and Non-ABS by looking at them?
#11
Your question was whether or not you could tell if abs bearings are installed by looking at the wheel (before it's mounted) you just bought from the guy with the '11 cvo.
Before I get into some pictures, this is weird. Why would a wheel from a 2011 model touring bike, CVO or whatever, have non-abs wheel bearings on the left side in front and the right side in the back? Makes no sense at all unless for some bazaar reason the owner pulled the original wheel bearings and replaced them with non-abs, which again, would make zero sense.
The ABS bearing is a HD part and cannot be substituted with anything else. The non abs bearing can be substituted with brands such as SKF, etc. The ABS bearings in front on on the left, and they are on the right side on the rear wheel.
Here are some pictures for you. As indicated above, the non-abs bearings usually have a black plastic seal. The ABS bearings have a grayish or greenish outer seal.
Here's my front agitator's left side. You can see the greenish or some may say grayish bearing plastic seal:
Here is the other side of the front wheel, or the right side (non-abs). You will notice that is is black in color:
Same coloration for the rear wheel. Here is a shot of the right, or ABS side of the rear wheel and you can again see the greenish/grayish plastic bearing seal:
Here is the left(or pulley side) wheel bearing (non-abs bearing) for the rear wheel. It lives behind the IDS rubber in the rear wheel hub. As on the front wheel, the rear non-abs bearing plastic seal is also black:
Here is a picture of the HD ABS bearing made by F.A.G. of Canada and also the HD non-ABS bearing which is made in South Korea:
ABS bearings are about 2.5 to 3 mm thicker than the non-abs bearing. This extra width is to house the encoding mechanism that tells your ABS sensor that the wheel is turning. The calipers show the difference in thickness between the pictured non-abs bearing and the standard abs bearing from HD:
This thickness difference is significant when considering that the brake rotors must be aligned properly within the calipers or there could be trouble. So when converting an ABS wheel to a non-abs wheel, you need to pay attention to spacer lengths.
If the bearings were mounted with the lettering to the outside, then all you have to do is look at the numbers stamped on face of the bearings 25mm bore face to tell if it is an ABS or non-abs bearing. The part numbers are also printed on the plastic seal. Part number for the ABS bearing is H-D 9252 and the non-abs bearing part is HD-9276A.
Before I get into some pictures, this is weird. Why would a wheel from a 2011 model touring bike, CVO or whatever, have non-abs wheel bearings on the left side in front and the right side in the back? Makes no sense at all unless for some bazaar reason the owner pulled the original wheel bearings and replaced them with non-abs, which again, would make zero sense.
The ABS bearing is a HD part and cannot be substituted with anything else. The non abs bearing can be substituted with brands such as SKF, etc. The ABS bearings in front on on the left, and they are on the right side on the rear wheel.
Here are some pictures for you. As indicated above, the non-abs bearings usually have a black plastic seal. The ABS bearings have a grayish or greenish outer seal.
Here's my front agitator's left side. You can see the greenish or some may say grayish bearing plastic seal:
Here is the other side of the front wheel, or the right side (non-abs). You will notice that is is black in color:
Same coloration for the rear wheel. Here is a shot of the right, or ABS side of the rear wheel and you can again see the greenish/grayish plastic bearing seal:
Here is the left(or pulley side) wheel bearing (non-abs bearing) for the rear wheel. It lives behind the IDS rubber in the rear wheel hub. As on the front wheel, the rear non-abs bearing plastic seal is also black:
Here is a picture of the HD ABS bearing made by F.A.G. of Canada and also the HD non-ABS bearing which is made in South Korea:
ABS bearings are about 2.5 to 3 mm thicker than the non-abs bearing. This extra width is to house the encoding mechanism that tells your ABS sensor that the wheel is turning. The calipers show the difference in thickness between the pictured non-abs bearing and the standard abs bearing from HD:
This thickness difference is significant when considering that the brake rotors must be aligned properly within the calipers or there could be trouble. So when converting an ABS wheel to a non-abs wheel, you need to pay attention to spacer lengths.
If the bearings were mounted with the lettering to the outside, then all you have to do is look at the numbers stamped on face of the bearings 25mm bore face to tell if it is an ABS or non-abs bearing. The part numbers are also printed on the plastic seal. Part number for the ABS bearing is H-D 9252 and the non-abs bearing part is HD-9276A.
#12
Probably the safe play for piece of mind and ensuring that everything is correct for your bike, I would suggest purchasing new wheel installation kits. Though a bit pricey,these include the correct bearings, axle sleeves and associated bearing shims (if required) for your new wheels matching the correct wheel parts to your bike. It will take the guess work out for you.
These can be found on page 687 of the 2014 PnA big book.
These can be found on page 687 of the 2014 PnA big book.
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