I've adjusted the clutch many times with success. After the last time I adjusted it the clutch begins engaging (bike starts moving) with the lever about an inch off the grip, which I'm OK with but I can't seem to adjust the hub screw to make it engage with the lever farther out. I've set the screw out from lightly seated 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 turn. Clutch engages at the same place. I adjusted the cable the same way every time-dime-nickel from perch.

After the clutch and cable are adjusted 1/2 turn from lightly seated I measured the movement of the pressure plate and it's .075-.080"

I'm kinda afraid to try adjust the screw further in. I think that the more you turn the screw out-the closer to the grip the clutch engages so that's why I keep turning it in. That's what I've been working on anyway. Each time I adjust the clutch I start from scratch. Cold bike, loosen cable, adjust clutch and tighten cable.

The bike pulls fine and the clutch doesn't slip. I adjusted it today and took it for a 40 mi ride and by the time I got home it was getting hard to find neutral.

What do y'all think?

 

It sounds like your adjusting right. You can go out a little further up to 1 turn instead of half. But it might not be the clutch causing the issue could be in Trans.

 

After turning the adjuster to very light contact back off a full turn. Tighten it down to specs. Adjust the cable slack to specs and ride off.l

Service manual says 1/2 to 1 turn in backing off. I have found 1 turn to be perfect. Again with the qualifier that when turning it in until it makes contact do it like you would a micrometer with very light contact between the thumb and finger.

If you are having trouble with neutral it is because the adjuster is not backed out enough. Absolutely no other reason.

I can get neutral from up or down on my bikes. Not the case when I got them. Most think that it is normal on a HD to have trouble with neutral. I have 11 of them to show that is not the case.

The point that the clutch engages is not adjustable. The 1/2 to 1 full turn is not even 20 thousandth of an inch.

 

Give the cable a tad more slack.

 

I always adjust the hub screw until I feel it completely seated. I'll run it in and out several times to make sure it is seating fully and not just until it touches. It helps me stay consistent. This may or may not help your issue but it's worth a try.

 

This morning I went out and adjusted the clutch again. I loosened the cable then screwed the clutch adjuster screw in til seated. I backed the screw out 1 full turn then adjusted the cable for a full 1/8" of slack. After I got everything adjusted, I found most of the slack at the cable adjuster was taken up. There's only 2 or 3 threads left before all the slack is gone.

Cranked it up and put it in gear and eased the lever out slowly. Seems like the engagement point moved out a tiny bit, probably due to the extra slack in the cable.

I'm going out after awhile and check it out.

Thanks for the input, y'all.

 

if you only backed the screw out 1 turn after fully seating the adjustment screw, then your adjustment is off. when i would adjust my clutch, i would run the screw in all the way and then back out a couple of times just to eliminate any 'false' bottoms. then i would do like the book said and run it in until it just contacted, then back out a full turn.

 

Agree on both of these........
Skratch has it right in that you have to make sure that adjustment screw is seated, running it in all the way helps this.

Good advice guys

 

OK I took the bike for another 40 mile ride and after the bike warmed up things seemed a little better. I can live with it if it stays like this. I guess I just buggered up the adjustment last time.

Thanks for the help everybody.

One more thing. When I take the slack out of the cable to get my 1/8" free play the cable adjuster fittings are almost completely touching. 2-3 threads separate the 2 halves of the sheath. How normal is this? There's 91k on the bike with original clutch and about 80k on the cable.

Thanks again.