My seemingly never ending issue
#1
My seemingly never ending issue
This is going to be a bit long, but i am having an issue with my bike that has returned over and over again. The bike is a 2012 RGC CVO, so let me tell the story.
1. Bike ran as it should when i took delivery, at about 1200 miles i put on the Fullsac DX pipe and the 2" cores. I tuned the bike with the TTS and the tune was from Fullsac. The bike ran great till about 4000 miles.
Then is started stalling, eratic idle and hesitating throughout the RPM range. No codes on the speedo or brought up by HD when they ran diagnostics. Dealer decided to replace the TBW cable at the grip. This seemed to do the trick for a 100 or so miles. Then it started again. Dealer told me if it does it again to put the bike back to stocka nd bring it in, this would avoid any warrenty issues.
2. So i put the bilke back to stock. All issues were resolved, i was happy but need a better sounding bike. So i ordered the CFR's and the Power Vision tuner. I figured with just the hit of a button and 6 bolts the bile could be stock in 30 minutes if i needed to go to the dealer.
3. So i installed the CFR pipes and the Power Vision with a tune from Fuel Moto at about 4500 miles. Bike was running pretty darn good, did about 5 autotunes. Bike is running really good and getting good gas milage. I am ahappy camper once again.
Here i am once again the with the stalling and hesitation with about 6600 miles. The RPM gauge at a light is bouncing from 800-1150, once it hits 800 or so a few times it dies. There is no drama restarting the bike, but the same RPM fluctuations occur.
So this is what i have done as of recent to the bike between 4500 and 6600 mile. I change all the fluid, changed all motor bolts over to stainless steel, put a new cam chest cover on.
These are some of my trouble shooting steps to date.
1. Used the PV to reset trims - no help
2. Tightend battery terms, they were pretty snug already - no help
3. Spray down the intake with cleaner and used PV to reinstall the original tune from Fuel Moto, additionally i popped a bunch of connectors off the intake and made a visual inspection and added dielectric grease - ok this has seemed to help some, though i am feeling some hesitation around 2000 RPM. The test ride was prematurely shortened due to some snow fall.
Sorry about the long write up - anyone got some ideas what to do next. Not ready to take it to the dealer as the weather is crap and i don't want to drive it this time of the year anyway.
1. Bike ran as it should when i took delivery, at about 1200 miles i put on the Fullsac DX pipe and the 2" cores. I tuned the bike with the TTS and the tune was from Fullsac. The bike ran great till about 4000 miles.
Then is started stalling, eratic idle and hesitating throughout the RPM range. No codes on the speedo or brought up by HD when they ran diagnostics. Dealer decided to replace the TBW cable at the grip. This seemed to do the trick for a 100 or so miles. Then it started again. Dealer told me if it does it again to put the bike back to stocka nd bring it in, this would avoid any warrenty issues.
2. So i put the bilke back to stock. All issues were resolved, i was happy but need a better sounding bike. So i ordered the CFR's and the Power Vision tuner. I figured with just the hit of a button and 6 bolts the bile could be stock in 30 minutes if i needed to go to the dealer.
3. So i installed the CFR pipes and the Power Vision with a tune from Fuel Moto at about 4500 miles. Bike was running pretty darn good, did about 5 autotunes. Bike is running really good and getting good gas milage. I am ahappy camper once again.
Here i am once again the with the stalling and hesitation with about 6600 miles. The RPM gauge at a light is bouncing from 800-1150, once it hits 800 or so a few times it dies. There is no drama restarting the bike, but the same RPM fluctuations occur.
So this is what i have done as of recent to the bike between 4500 and 6600 mile. I change all the fluid, changed all motor bolts over to stainless steel, put a new cam chest cover on.
These are some of my trouble shooting steps to date.
1. Used the PV to reset trims - no help
2. Tightend battery terms, they were pretty snug already - no help
3. Spray down the intake with cleaner and used PV to reinstall the original tune from Fuel Moto, additionally i popped a bunch of connectors off the intake and made a visual inspection and added dielectric grease - ok this has seemed to help some, though i am feeling some hesitation around 2000 RPM. The test ride was prematurely shortened due to some snow fall.
Sorry about the long write up - anyone got some ideas what to do next. Not ready to take it to the dealer as the weather is crap and i don't want to drive it this time of the year anyway.
Last edited by SmokeyJoe101; 11-24-2013 at 02:04 PM.
#2
take off the tuner, put it back on.
92% of electronic problems are dirty connections.
just taking it off and on again will renew or "exercise" the connections.
sensors put out very low voltages- even a slight amount of resistance can alter the sensor input and the outputs to the acuators ( meaning the spark timing, injectors etc.)
inconsistent readings to the ECM and the 'tuner" can cause all kindsa troubles.
so start there
this is one of the reasons I stayed away from a piggyback tuner- I use xieds. if a more complex tuner were needed I would look at the thundermax which is a replacement ECM
some use a dielectric grease on connections to good effect- I do not as that same grease can trap and hold moisture in the connection.
I often use a "nic-sand" fiberglass "pen" to clean contacts ( auto body supply), spray cleaners can be used, but make sure they are plastic safe..... deoxit, blue shower, cramolin
comment on stainless fasteners- true stainless has a high nickel content and these fasteners can be "brittle" and break under conditions which may be fine for normal steel fasteners of the correct grade.
"stainless" is not always stainless...a fair number of the stainless panels on my kenmore bbq are rusting.
mike
92% of electronic problems are dirty connections.
just taking it off and on again will renew or "exercise" the connections.
sensors put out very low voltages- even a slight amount of resistance can alter the sensor input and the outputs to the acuators ( meaning the spark timing, injectors etc.)
inconsistent readings to the ECM and the 'tuner" can cause all kindsa troubles.
so start there
this is one of the reasons I stayed away from a piggyback tuner- I use xieds. if a more complex tuner were needed I would look at the thundermax which is a replacement ECM
some use a dielectric grease on connections to good effect- I do not as that same grease can trap and hold moisture in the connection.
I often use a "nic-sand" fiberglass "pen" to clean contacts ( auto body supply), spray cleaners can be used, but make sure they are plastic safe..... deoxit, blue shower, cramolin
comment on stainless fasteners- true stainless has a high nickel content and these fasteners can be "brittle" and break under conditions which may be fine for normal steel fasteners of the correct grade.
"stainless" is not always stainless...a fair number of the stainless panels on my kenmore bbq are rusting.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 11-24-2013 at 02:17 PM.
#3
take off the tuner, put it back on.
92% of electronic problems are dirty connections.
just taking it off and on again with renew or "exercise" the connections.
sensors put out very low voltages- even a slight amount of resistance can alter the sensor input and the outputs to the acuators ( meaning the spark timing, injectors etc.)
inconsistent readings to the ECM and the 'tuner" can cause all kindsa troubles.
so start there
mike
92% of electronic problems are dirty connections.
just taking it off and on again with renew or "exercise" the connections.
sensors put out very low voltages- even a slight amount of resistance can alter the sensor input and the outputs to the acuators ( meaning the spark timing, injectors etc.)
inconsistent readings to the ECM and the 'tuner" can cause all kindsa troubles.
so start there
mike
I think you're going to have to put it back to stock and let them figure out the root cause.
#4
take off the tuner, put it back on.
92% of electronic problems are dirty connections.
just taking it off and on again with renew or "exercise" the connections.
sensors put out very low voltages- even a slight amount of resistance can alter the sensor input and the outputs to the acuators ( meaning the spark timing, injectors etc.)
inconsistent readings to the ECM and the 'tuner" can cause all kindsa troubles.
so start there
this is one of the reasons I stayed away from a piggyback tuner- I use xieds. if a more complex tuner were needed I would look at the thundermax which is a replacement ECM
comment on stainless fasteners- true stainless has a high nickel content and these fasteners can be "brittle" and break under conditions which may be fine for normal steel fasteners of the correct grade.
"stainless" is not always stainless...a fair number of the stainless panels on my kenmore bbq are rusting.
mike
92% of electronic problems are dirty connections.
just taking it off and on again with renew or "exercise" the connections.
sensors put out very low voltages- even a slight amount of resistance can alter the sensor input and the outputs to the acuators ( meaning the spark timing, injectors etc.)
inconsistent readings to the ECM and the 'tuner" can cause all kindsa troubles.
so start there
this is one of the reasons I stayed away from a piggyback tuner- I use xieds. if a more complex tuner were needed I would look at the thundermax which is a replacement ECM
comment on stainless fasteners- true stainless has a high nickel content and these fasteners can be "brittle" and break under conditions which may be fine for normal steel fasteners of the correct grade.
"stainless" is not always stainless...a fair number of the stainless panels on my kenmore bbq are rusting.
mike
Mike - niether of the tuners are the piggy back type. I forgot to mention i had the gas tank off to run a the PV cable. This may be related or not, but it seems this started again shortly after hitting a big bump in the road.
Last edited by SmokeyJoe101; 11-24-2013 at 02:20 PM.
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#8
One could certainly assume that. No never had the dealer do any tuning. Since i leve in Germany there are only a few that tue the US spec bikes.
#9
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I would check to make sure the Rubber cap is on the purge tube on the throttle body. They are known to fall off.
Next thing I would check is the throttle control connector on the throttle body. It could be the actual unit having intermittent issues, or just a matter of the connectors needing cleaning and a little dielectric grease.
Next thing I would check is the throttle control connector on the throttle body. It could be the actual unit having intermittent issues, or just a matter of the connectors needing cleaning and a little dielectric grease.
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#10
I would check to make sure the Rubber cap is on the purge tube on the throttle body. They are known to fall off.
Next thing I would check is the throttle control connector on the throttle body. It could be the actual unit having intermittent issues, or just a matter of the connectors needing cleaning and a little dielectric grease.
Next thing I would check is the throttle control connector on the throttle body. It could be the actual unit having intermittent issues, or just a matter of the connectors needing cleaning and a little dielectric grease.