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Tri bar running/brake light for street glide install question

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  #1  
Old 11-04-2013 | 10:11 AM
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Default Tri bar running/brake light for street glide install question

I just bought a 2014 street glide and I am swapping out the running light for the brake light/running light accessory part and I remember when I installed the same on my 2012 it was a pain because of tight area for fingers for removing those star screws that mount unit, what did you guys use to get into that tight area to remove mounting screws?
 
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Old 11-04-2013 | 10:24 AM
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A 1/4 inch drive socket, ratchet wrench, and a 2 inch extension worked for me.
 
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Old 11-04-2013 | 10:27 AM
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shortleg
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I was able to find a set of torx socets that were long enough
when used with a universal joint fit fine.
Shortleg[Dave]
 
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Old 11-04-2013 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by N3WWL
A 1/4 inch drive socket, ratchet wrench, and a 2 inch extension worked for me.
+1 It's definitely tight in there but it can be done.

Here is a look at mine after the install.

 
  #5  
Old 11-04-2013 | 04:24 PM
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Just did mine last week on a 2014 SG, (1) remove cover on the back it just snaps off,
(2) unplug wires,
(3) get #20 torx-up on top inside fender undo torx screws, remove running light,(4)get
run stop brake light in place in fender, (5) plug wires into both ends, (6) put Torx screws
back in holes do not over tighten, last replace cover it just snapsback on.
 
  #6  
Old 11-04-2013 | 05:26 PM
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I took the "partial" fender/filler off the rear fender (1 bolt underneath the fender - loosen it up is enough) and the 2 x 3 bolts behind each saddlebag (I had to glue 1 clip on anyway). took 2 connectors off and voila... then it is easy to unscrew the 2 torq screws.

I modded my own stock tri-bar to do run/brake... a lot cheaper than buying the MoCo version....
planning to mod 2 more I got laying around (on is pre 2010 I believe, it does not have the 2 connectors installed). If anyone is interested in them let me know via PM...
 
  #7  
Old 11-04-2013 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by N3WWL
A 1/4 inch drive socket, ratchet wrench, and a 2 inch extension worked for me.
+1 on this. Exactly how I did it. I used these: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...IT-DRIVER-SET/

<-- Where do they come up with these?
 
  #8  
Old 11-04-2013 | 09:59 PM
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do yourself a favor and jack the bike up with the back wheel just off the ground...it will drop a bit more and provide more access to the #$%& screws.......
 
  #9  
Old 11-05-2013 | 03:09 AM
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Thanks guys I'll try jacking the bike up and use torx with ratchet last time I found using a torx Allen wrench too much work!


one thing I didn't do was
Originally Posted by hoethree
do yourself a favor and jack the bike up with the back wheel just off the ground...it will drop a bit more and provide more access to the #$%& screws.......
 
  #10  
Old 11-05-2013 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by AAWAV
I took the "partial" fender/filler off the rear fender (1 bolt underneath the fender - loosen it up is enough) and the 2 x 3 bolts behind each saddlebag (I had to glue 1 clip on anyway). took 2 connectors off and voila... then it is easy to unscrew the 2 torq screws.

I modded my own stock tri-bar to do run/brake... a lot cheaper than buying the MoCo version....
planning to mod 2 more I got laying around (on is pre 2010 I believe, it does not have the 2 connectors installed). If anyone is interested in them let me know via PM...
I'd be interested in knowing the procedure for modifying the stock tri-bar. Could you elaborate please?
 


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