I've talked to two indy's about tuning my bike, one after a dyno pull at a rally and one at a local shop when inquiring about a big bore upgrade. Both dislike the power commander, says they don't tune well. One preferred the SERT and one said he has software that will allow him to tune directly to the ECM without the SERT. I have a hiccup at 26 to 28k that I've always attributed to the w555 cams and my MPG sucks at about 35 average. I'm running auto tune and I've leaned the afr's in the cruse range to 14.6 with little effect on mileage, otherwise it runs well and dyno was 86tq and 78hp. Anybody have anyone tune straight to the ECM? I know your totally dependent on your tuners ability to tune as results go and I really hate loosing control of my ability to self adjust my tune, but at the same time I wonder if I'm loosing power and MPG with the power commander.

 

Sounds like the guys your going with just don't know how to tweek the PCV. Some tuners like one kind of tuner over another. My dyno guy is a freak of nature when it comes to a PCV, that's how he got me 93lbs torque running street sweepers. As for tuning the straight up ECM...don't know about that. Hope you get her dialed in soon.

 

"I have a hiccup at 26 to 28k that I've always attributed to the w555 cams "

Its not the cams.

 

I'm running a PCV and will soon be switching to PV on my '09. I'm getting good power and driveability but fuel mileage sucks. The PCV can be tuned for either power or mileage. It is fine on non 02 senser bikes because that is all that can be done anyway. Removing the 02s on newer bikes is just a bad idea. I'm putting them back and getting a new dyno ran. PV does have a dealer option wich allows tuners to flash multiple bikes. No reason to retune if bike is properly tuned unless ya change something...

 

I need to upgrade from my PCIII, now that I have head pipes with O2 sensor bungs, I am seriously thinking of going with a ThunderMax and letting it self tune.

After seeing what it did for my friends bike, I am a big fan

 

Try this map. As far as the Auto tuning don't let it autotune the low speed areas as they are pretty confused signals down there with cams. I left 0 in that area. I would also limit how much the auto tune can lean the tables to 10 as it is defaulted to 20. Don't remember how to change that. The timing map is much improved over probably what you have now. This map is converted from a PV map. If it doesn't work for you let me know and can make changes or talk you through it. The area you are having the hiccup in is common to the dresser/True duals. This same area will be lean with the 2 in 1 also. The area on your map that needs changed is from 10 to 40% throttle and 2500 to 3000. You may also disable the auto tune until you get this area working right. Try the map if you want or atleast pull the timing table and put in yours. 35 mpg is not too unreasonable unless you are really babying the bike and I doubt you are with 555 cams.

 

Thanks, I'll try your timing table, it's a lot changed and the fuel tables should self tune with the auto tune shouldn't they. A lot of change from what I'm running so it's worth a try! Looks like your 0 throttle is a lot different also so I'll plug the whole map in and see what happens, I love to tinker.

 

You need to find some one who tunes w/PC-V's.
Just because someone has a dyno does not mean that they are a tuner.

Generally it is best if you go with a tuner of the dyno-er you are going to be working with.

Your MPG is not bad,(could be a little better) in the scale of average I'd say.

Your HP/TQ is on the low end though.

How do your plugs look?

The majority(almost all )of the woods cams that I am aware of always need more compression.
They are also mid-range cams as well.

Good luck w/the new tune.

 

Before my 120R I was running a PCV w/AT and TW-555 cams and it ran great with a fuel moto tune and a couple runs of the auto tune.

You might want to make sure all your exhaust bolts are still tight, have you ever changed out your fuel filter?

How long have you had the cams installed? Was the issue there only after you installed them or did it develop later on?

 

On a side note I had a PVC go bad and was able to run my bike with out it to see if the PCV was the issue. My bike did have the stage one download from the dealer but you might want to see if you can remove the PCV and take it for a short run to see if you still have the issue at the RPM you mentioned?