CCE triple clamp and Progressive monoshock impressions
#41
#42
I am learning as I go on in life to take things apart after I've got time scheduled to put it back together, well I'm trying anyway...
#43
#45
Brief update -- I have lept into this. After talking with Rick at CCE and PMing with Jason/fabrik8r, I've orderd the CCE top tree, Jason's modified Ricor Intiminators, Race Tech 1kg single rate springs, and Amsoil 5w oil. (Frankly, I'm also largely copying grbrown's strategy.) I'm going to spend a few days identifying any other parts parts and specialized tools needed for this install then start a new thread describing my install and the results, which may help others.
Meanwhile, anyone that knows of needed parts and tools for this particular version of this mod (i.e., CCE top tree / Jason's modded Intiminators / RT springs), please chime in.
Meanwhile, anyone that knows of needed parts and tools for this particular version of this mod (i.e., CCE top tree / Jason's modded Intiminators / RT springs), please chime in.
#46
#47
Don't yet know. Race Tech said lay out the old internals (springs, washers etc.) and make new internals (springs, Intiminator, washers, spacer, etc.) same length by cutting provided PVC spacer. That seems crude. I'm hoping Jason and members can give more refined starting point. Maybe RT is correct.
#49
I am in the middle of this job myself. I am converting my bike to a Roadglide at the same time so the whole front end was apart anyway. You will need a fork seal installer. Yes, you can make one out of pvc pipe. I tried that and then I bought the real installer. You won't regret buying the tool! The nut at the top of the triple tree is likely to require a bigger socket than you would likely have, as would the cap on the fork tubes. As far as parts, you should buy all the new seals and bushings for the internals. Let me know if you need specific part numbers for them. The new CCE fork tubes do NOT come with a bushing on the end and there is no way I would reuse an old one after this kind of expenditure.
The assembly is very straight forward. I thought they were kidding about the PVC pipe making up the difference, but they weren't! Anyway Race Tech springs are like 6" shorter than regular OEM springs. That is why the pipe is there. You will need to go to Home Depot or whereever to get more of the pipe and a nice blade action pipe cutter. The pipe that comes with the RaceTech springs in not long enough to do both sides when you are doing the CCE fork tubes (unless I measured something wrong, LOL). The cutter will make cutting the tube much easier and most important cleaner. Hopefully you have a manual for your year bike.
Be aware that HD in its failed attempt to make the bikes ride better, messed with the front fork guts for years. Here is my point. If you have a 02-05 you have a cartridge in the forks like I did and will need some extra parts. If not, you have conventional forks on both sides and have the right parts. All you use from your old setup is the damper tube, bottoming spring (if you are not lowering the bike), and the little cup that goes on the bottom of the damping tube. Racetech tells you to drill the damping tube. I lucked into having my buddy's 07 and later damping tubes which are already drilled. So for like $30, you may want to buy the new damping tubes if you don't have a drill press. The holes they tell you to drill don't have to be perfect as they are just rendering the damping tubes inert, but I would just buy the 07 ones because I'm a bit lazy and don't like hacked up stuff, even if you can't see it. Go to motorcycle metal.com and watch that chick rebuild the HD forks. Clean your stuff well. Take your time. Pay attention to the details. It is a little tricky to get the fork caps back on, but I did it myself.
Oh, one other tool which is not NEEDED but would make your life much easier is a fork oil level tool. There is only one I even think is worth considering and that is RaceTechs. All the others require 3 hands to use and if given the choice I would not use anything at all and just stick a ruler down in there to measure the level. Yes, the fork oil level is VERY important. It controls how much of an air chamber is in the fork and plays a role in the character of the ride and is a tuning tool.
When you put the CCE triple tree top on, you really should re adjust your fall away. Remember that there is a service bulletin out there that recommends a tighter setting than what was used for years. It might have only been for Road Glides, I can't remember because I'm getting old and feeble minded.
That's all I can remember right now. Post if you have any Qs. If you post in another thread, I may need to be pointed to it as I don't live on the computer all day. PM me.
The assembly is very straight forward. I thought they were kidding about the PVC pipe making up the difference, but they weren't! Anyway Race Tech springs are like 6" shorter than regular OEM springs. That is why the pipe is there. You will need to go to Home Depot or whereever to get more of the pipe and a nice blade action pipe cutter. The pipe that comes with the RaceTech springs in not long enough to do both sides when you are doing the CCE fork tubes (unless I measured something wrong, LOL). The cutter will make cutting the tube much easier and most important cleaner. Hopefully you have a manual for your year bike.
Be aware that HD in its failed attempt to make the bikes ride better, messed with the front fork guts for years. Here is my point. If you have a 02-05 you have a cartridge in the forks like I did and will need some extra parts. If not, you have conventional forks on both sides and have the right parts. All you use from your old setup is the damper tube, bottoming spring (if you are not lowering the bike), and the little cup that goes on the bottom of the damping tube. Racetech tells you to drill the damping tube. I lucked into having my buddy's 07 and later damping tubes which are already drilled. So for like $30, you may want to buy the new damping tubes if you don't have a drill press. The holes they tell you to drill don't have to be perfect as they are just rendering the damping tubes inert, but I would just buy the 07 ones because I'm a bit lazy and don't like hacked up stuff, even if you can't see it. Go to motorcycle metal.com and watch that chick rebuild the HD forks. Clean your stuff well. Take your time. Pay attention to the details. It is a little tricky to get the fork caps back on, but I did it myself.
Oh, one other tool which is not NEEDED but would make your life much easier is a fork oil level tool. There is only one I even think is worth considering and that is RaceTechs. All the others require 3 hands to use and if given the choice I would not use anything at all and just stick a ruler down in there to measure the level. Yes, the fork oil level is VERY important. It controls how much of an air chamber is in the fork and plays a role in the character of the ride and is a tuning tool.
When you put the CCE triple tree top on, you really should re adjust your fall away. Remember that there is a service bulletin out there that recommends a tighter setting than what was used for years. It might have only been for Road Glides, I can't remember because I'm getting old and feeble minded.
That's all I can remember right now. Post if you have any Qs. If you post in another thread, I may need to be pointed to it as I don't live on the computer all day. PM me.
#50
Re drilled damping tube, mine is an 09 SG. Do you happen to know if 09 tubes already are drilled?
Good luck with your projects.