I was just Told that i need a $420.00 special tool to bleed the brakes on my '13 SG with ABS. Is this true?

 

I did mine with a $15 brake bleeding kit from a auto supply store.

Did it in the spring, no ABS warning light came on after I was done and rode all summer with no problem.

had to brake hard the other day over a series of bumps in the road and got that uncomfortable reaction you get with ABS when they dont grab on repeated ups and downs so I know they are working.

I know someone here can give a more detailed answer but the tool you are talking about is probably what the dealer uses to check the system, cant recall what they call it or the service but I didnt need it.

 

The best tool is a vacuum bleeder. Open the bleeder, put the tube over it, take off the master cylinder cover and turn on the bleeder. Just mak sure you keep fluid in the master as you are doing this. Once the fluid comes out clear and no bubbles, close the bleeder on the caliper. Then repeat for the other caliper. Works like a charm.

 

Pretty sure the Digital Tech is only required is you get air in the ABS module. If you bleed correctly as the other posters have said above, ensuring you keep the master cylinder topped up as you bleed you will be fine. Another trick is once you have finished bleeding the brakes, tape the brake lever to the throttle grip (leave the master cylinder cover on but not tightened up) and this will remove any remaining air from the system. Just remember to tighten the screws on the master cylinder cover before riding.

 

thanks for the info guys, keep all info coming! I am preparing to install some apes and will have to switch out the brake cable. want to make sure i have all my ducks in a row before i start! Would rather not have the shop do it but if i need the tool, it will be cheaper to have the shop install!

 

Deadwood is right on with the Digital tech and ABS. Just check all the banjo connections before you start.

 

BOSOXFan, I recently did mine after installing apes and instead of bleeding from the wheel end I bought a large plastic syringe and some clear tube. I soaked the brake fluid out of the master cylinder, filled the plastic syringe with fluid, flicked the tube to remove air bubbles and reverse bled up to the master cylinder. You will see the old fluid pump into the master cylinder then it will pump through with the new fluid. I repeated the same on the other side. You will need a hook to hang the syringe up while you empty the master cylinder a couple of times.

Easiest method I reckon considering you are installing a new brake line, if it was a straight fluid change the other way might be best.

 

As long as you don't turn the ignition on while you have air in the system, you don't need to touch the ABS module. Just bleed like normal. DO NOT turn on the ignition during the process and you are good...

 

All great ind=fo, will not be buying the tool!

 

Just to add to what the mouth has already said, from the moment you take loose the first end of the brake line till your finished installing new brake line and vacuum bleeding the system, DON'T TURN ON IGNITION!!! Doing so causes the ABS to cycle and will trap air in the system. Then you will need the services of your Harley dealer and their DigiTech.