So, in less than 2 months, the Navy is sending me back VA Beach and I need to get my RK there. Letting the movers take it is out of the question... Anyways, I have a 5X10 Big Tex open utility trailer that will more than cover the weight and will be pulling it with a half-ton Silverado (5.3). What I need to know is:

1. What is the best chock I can get for the trip? Not too worried about price, I just want it to be able to nearly hold the bike by itself.

2. How are y'all tying them down? I plan on getting a couple sets of the soft "things" that are supposed to not scratch when wrapped around parts and using my ratchet straps. And I've seen on ebay these brackets that bolt to the RK windshield mounts, but I can't imagine those two bolts on each side being able to support much.

Moving down here I brought my Vrod, but I didn't chock it. I just threw 8 tie downs on it and screwed a couple boards behind each tire. Sad to say, but I didn't have the same connection with that bike as I do this one. I treat this one as if its one of my kids. Lol

Any help or any other tips you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

 

the biggest concern in moving anything is how is the load controlled.

the driver can choose rates of acceleration and turns...but NOT panic stops.

so this is what you need to plan for

If your trailer has brakes and more than 1 axle, great- otherwise consider putting the bike in your truck- the 2009+ model will fit is a shortbed chev, the rear wheel will be at or just past the tailgate seam.
this is a neat product:
http://www.dgmtailgatesupport.com/
or you can skin w/ 3/4" ply.

a chock may not be required ( I don;t use...I have a pingel- never installed it in my bed- didn;t want to drill holes)
some riders who use a plywood skin, may attach the chock to the ply.
make sure that any chock won;t hit the fender at the rear when the suspension compresses.
...I've been using a piece of 2x4 in front of the tire- I need to keep the top of the fender from hitting the front of the bed. The 2x4 keeps the bike back so that works.

attach straps high- I can usually get up near the top of the crashbar- it you have fairing lowers, removing them may be smart, as strapping options increase

I use 3 straps, 1 to each side, then a 2" truck strap which I run from side to side, wrapping around the crashbars

( do NOT strap to handlebars- the bars are mounted on bushings and are not solid to the bike)

compress the front suspension slightly- do not crank on it, you may blow the seals

the rear straps- use at least 3- straight out to the sides, and 1 angled to the front of the bike to control forward motion.


stop and check straps at intervals


don't use traps, covers or allow anything to rub on the bike in the wind and scuff the paint



mike

 

I would look at the condor chock. I actually have the harley version. When I tie it down, I leave it in gear and wrap a soft tie around the lower fork and pull that forward. Do the same on the other side. I then run a 3rd ratchet strap through the front wheel pulling the bike into the chock.

For the rear, I use a strap on through the back wheel to keep the bike from moving left or right.

 

id go with quality straps front and rear. but id be more concerned of road debris bouncing of my bike. id look into renting and enclosed trailer for the trip.

 

I have an enclosed trailer & use the HD Cruiser Cradle wheel chock! It works spectacular & makes loading a big touring bike a one man show! It can also be moved to your garage via a trailer mount. I use two soft straps under my floor board support on both sides. Works like a charm. If I'm going really far I'll use a third strap through the rear wheel.

 

I use the condor 'pit stop' chock. about $250. Its the same as the Harley chock as it is made by condor. The condor chock will hold your bike upright on its own so you just use rachet strapes to keep it down and forward. I also use the condor chock on my my garage floor when not trailering since it stores the bike straight up in the garage. easy on easy off.
Also secure the rear wheel because the bike may move right or left while transporting. I made a foot long guide( track/groove) for my back wheel to sit in with 2 pieces of 2x4 and screwed the pieces into the trailer floor. The back wheel sits between the two pieces of 2x4. I also then tie down with ratchet straps the rear of the bike to the trailer so you avoid the left to right movement of the rear wheel. Don't over compress either front or back of the suspension. 1-2 inches in the front is plenty, 1 inch in the back seems to work for me.

I have towed my bike for about four thousand miles with a flat bed trailer behind a 2010 f150 with no damage at all. I towed in the Rockies as so far no rock damage but that's your decision. Several of my friends used both fully covered trailers and flatbeds and we all prefer flatbed trailers due to the heavy weight of the covered trailers. However, a fully covered trailer allows for a nice clean bike when you arrive. Anyway hope this helps.
ferd

 

I have a Harbor Freight chock and it works.

 

Thanks guys! I really appreciate it. The enclosed trailer is a no go. My trailer is nice and garge kept... I don't think it would pay off to sell mine and rent or buy an enclosed. If i rent, i would have to buy or rent another one in 3 more years when i retire. if I bought an enclosed I would have to get one short enough to fit in the garage or pay for storage somewhere. After looking at the suggested chocks, I am going to order a condor that I can use on the trailer and in the garage. Thanks again everyone.

Chris

 

make sure your straps are harley straps or your warranty will be null and void.
I've pulled mine 950 miles for the last 8 years to florida with habor freight chocks with no problems at all. I use one harley strap and three wal mart straps. ot a scratch on the bike and no problems at all.

 

Non-Harley straps will void your warranty???? Frickin' classic, good one!!