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FM 107 Build Ongoing, and other upgrades! (long)

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  #51  
Old 11-08-2013 | 11:18 PM
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Mike
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I'm running stock bored cylinders in my 10.75 cr 107. So far, no problems, and I've had this motor together for a couple of seasons. Your performance and longevity will be affected by a couple of things: the skill of the shop doing the cylinder work, and how you treat the motor.

You're boring the cylinders to the fins, and there is zero margin for error. You're getting every little bit of performance available from the stock cylinders, and if there's a problem, you're going to be throwing them in the trash, and starting with different jugs. The spigots are very thin, and piston slap can trash the cylinders in a very short period of time. It's critical that you let the motor warm up, and the pistons grow to operating size before you romp on the motor.

I'd do it again, without hesitation. It's my hope that, one of these days, someone will start building a cast 106 or 107 flat top. I'm not going to hold my breath, though.
 
  #52  
Old 11-09-2013 | 07:42 AM
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Get ahold of Frank over at DragosBikeWorks he offers a 106" kit.Hope this helps
 
  #53  
Old 11-09-2013 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Most builders say 120 torque is the limit. But lug the motor or do hole shots and you will twist it.


I don't think that 120tq statement is true. The SE120 motor has a pressed crank and is putting out more than 120 TQ.

I think is a crap shot. Some have crank issues and some don't. It's a roll of the dice. IMO
 
  #54  
Old 11-09-2013 | 08:55 AM
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soft 02
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Originally Posted by pat1
I don't think that 120tq statement is true. The SE120 motor has a pressed crank and is putting out more than 120 TQ.

I think is a crap shot. Some have crank issues and some don't. It's a roll of the dice. IMO
Dont get me wrong. After pullin my crank and seeing it first hand I would beef it up before going bigger. S&S has a new crang that I would use. Bout $1400 but never have to worry again.
 
  #55  
Old 11-09-2013 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Dont get me wrong. After pullin my crank and seeing it first hand I would beef it up before going bigger. S&S has a new crang that I would use. Bout $1400 but never have to worry again.


I agree with you 100%. I have been looking at S&S new crank. I might just build the whole engine top to bottom.... But if I do that I'm not going with a 107ci. I'm already in there I just might go with a 117ci.
 
  #56  
Old 11-09-2013 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pat1
I agree with you 100%. I have been looking at S&S new crank. I might just build the whole engine top to bottom.... But if I do that I'm not going with a 107ci. I'm already in there I just might go with a 117ci.
My budget stopped me at 107 but next time its going to be 117 as well. Had DH do my crank. Next time going to do the Timken and cut the cases for bigger cylinders. Just hoping for another 100k out of this one.
 
  #57  
Old 11-09-2013 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
My budget stopped me at 107 but next time its going to be 117 as well. Had DH do my crank. Next time going to do the Timken and cut the cases for bigger cylinders. Just hoping for another 100k out of this one.

How much was the crank work? Why didn't you get the timken bearing stuff done?
 
  #58  
Old 11-09-2013 | 09:46 AM
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soft 02
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Originally Posted by pat1
How much was the crank work? Why didn't you get the timken bearing stuff done?
Bout $900 plus another $200 for competition rods as mine were toaste. Ran out of $$$. Found I had a cracked head and that set me back. Im not a horsepower junkie. I was happie with my cammed 96". Crank went south so while I was there I decided to do the 107.
 
  #59  
Old 11-11-2013 | 11:47 AM
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BrianSF-GA
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From: Cartersville, Georgia
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Originally Posted by Mike
I'm running stock bored cylinders in my 10.75 cr 107. So far, no problems, and I've had this motor together for a couple of seasons. Your performance and longevity will be affected by a couple of things: the skill of the shop doing the cylinder work, and how you treat the motor.

You're boring the cylinders to the fins, and there is zero margin for error. You're getting every little bit of performance available from the stock cylinders, and if there's a problem, you're going to be throwing them in the trash, and starting with different jugs. The spigots are very thin, and piston slap can trash the cylinders in a very short period of time. It's critical that you let the motor warm up, and the pistons grow to operating size before you romp on the motor.

I'd do it again, without hesitation. It's my hope that, one of these days, someone will start building a cast 106 or 107 flat top. I'm not going to hold my breath, though.
10.75 CP's here in a pretty new FM107" build ... very happy with the first season. FM mentioned true static is about 10.6 with their Level B's.
 
  #60  
Old 01-14-2014 | 02:52 PM
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jlj6t
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Originally Posted by Primetime_2
milage #'s on the ride home?
Apologies...missed this one. Touring mileage on the slab = 38-40 mpg, hand-calculated. Around town, nut loose behind the handlebars, romping on the throttle and generally having a great time = 34-35 mpg, hand-calculated.

UPDATE: Just as satisfied now as I was a few months ago leaving Little Chute. This engine is just an unbelievable amount of fun. Still very new, as I've only put about 3500 miles on it thus far. But absolutely no issues so far, except for the cheeser I get every time I roll on...
 
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