09 roadking when adjusting clutch, adjuster screw inward until lightly seated, question will the round metal that adjuster screw, screws into will the round metal be against the retaining ring when screw is lightly seated?

 

I'm not sure I understand your question, but you are supposed to adjust the screw until it is lightly seated then back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and then tighten the locking nut without turning the adjustment screw.

 

There are some good videos on YouTube that can help explain everything. Plus it's always good to see it being done so that you grasp what your being told.

 

Just screw it in until you meet light resistance, then do it an additional 2 or 3 times until you have a feel for it. Once it is lightly seated then back it off somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 of a round. Next, tighten the lock nut while holding the set screw in place. Finish up by going back to the previously loosened clutch cable on the opposite side of the bike and adjust it so you have about the thickness of a dime between the cable perch and the end of the cable. You want just a little bit of slack there so when the clutch gets warm it does not affect your clutch. Once everything is set up correctly, give the clutch lever a squeeze or two to set everything in place. Then go out and ride the hell out of it.

 

The answer to your question is YES. As you screw the adjuster in the "round metal" will push outwards up against the snap ring. If you go past "lightly seated (touching)" then you will actually start depressing the clutch spring and separating the plates just as if you were pulling on the clutch lever. Just remember to back the adjuster off 1/2 to one full turn after that and tighten the nut for your internal setting. 3/4 is a good place.

 

NO! Lightly seated means the disengage pin is just touched, not pushed against. You could turn the screw in until the plate you are talking about moves as described, but that would be well past "lightly seated" or "just contacts". The "sucker trap" in this procedure is mistaking a burred thread resistance to the lightly seated condition. Using a wrench handle to turn the adjusting screw until you see the plate move will guaranty you have turned past any burred threads and smoothed them. back out the screw and then feel for the real contact point and make your adjustment from there. The lock nut torque is less than what feels right, so use a torque wrench to avoid over tightening and re-burring the threads. Also, having the transmission in gear will limit engine rotation while breaking the locking nut loose and while doing the final tightening.

 

Watch it next time....that is exactly what it does. The adjuster pushes on the actuation rod (inward) to set the ball and ramp and the adjusting plate will push back (outward) against the snap ring. All of these components touch each other and you are basically taking out all the slack in the component stack-up. That is what you feel as lightly seating.

And if you see the adjusting plate touch the snap ring you have removed all doubt of burrs on the threads creating a false seat. The backing off of 1/2 - 1 turn is for setting an air gap between the components so when heat builds, causing them to expand there will be no pressure on the clutch spring which would reduce pressure on the plates.

Component stack up from trans to clutch....Ball and Ramp>Throw out bearing>Oil slinger>clutch actuation rod>clutch adjustment screw thru Plate>Snap ring>clutch hub and components.

 

As you know, you are correct. I misinterpreted the first disk movement as the initial part of clutch release rather than just taking up the slack.