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Wild One 502s with stock cables...Installed

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  #11  
Old 10-07-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by themouth!!!
The first thing I would do is remove the clamp at the Nacelle. You don't need it and it will give you a lot of extra room.
Then route the cable based on what gives the most room. You should have plenty...
I tried removing the clamp, but the cable pops forward way too much, it's next to the headlight unclamped.
Looks like the clamp would work better if it was attached to the neck area, but I really don't want to drill a hole in my neck
just for a clamp. Maybe I can get away with one of those bar type clamps.
You are right, the clamp is where it's binding when stretched out.
Other than that, it looks like it should be plenty long the way it is.
Thanks for the help

Looked again, maybe I need to run it inside the bars like in your pic. Going to try that out.
 

Last edited by Ragtop; 10-07-2013 at 04:30 PM.
  #12  
Old 10-07-2013, 04:33 PM
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I just pushed my cable behind the nacelle and used a wiretie to secure it. Works fine...
 
  #13  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:14 PM
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I just picked up a set of KST Kustoms Mayhem 1 1/4" - 12" apes (black) and waiting for new Magnum Shielding Black Pearl cables to replace the MS Chromite II I have on now. The KST look a lot like PY monkey bars but at half the price and made in Georgia. I ain't gonna have to re-route anything and should look great. Can't wait to get the WO 508's off the bike. Hard to believe I put up with these bars for 2 years. Like steering a wheelbarrow.... Glad you were able to make it work for you but I hate cutting corners.
 
  #14  
Old 10-07-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mikelikesbikes
I just picked up a set of KST Kustoms Mayhem 1 1/4" - 12" apes (black) and waiting for new Magnum Shielding Black Pearl cables to replace the MS Chromite II I have on now. The KST look a lot like PY monkey bars but at half the price and made in Georgia. I ain't gonna have to re-route anything and should look great. Can't wait to get the WO 508's off the bike. Hard to believe I put up with these bars for 2 years. Like steering a wheelbarrow.... Glad you were able to make it work for you but I hate cutting corners.
No cutting corners about it...I didn't need new cables so I didn't buy them...like I said before, I do this as a side business. I don't half *** anything...this question is asked here all the time. Figured I'd help some people out...
 

Last edited by Northbound Southerner; 10-07-2013 at 07:21 PM.
  #15  
Old 10-07-2013, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by themouth!!!
That's actually my old bike with the 14s. I am building my new one up to look just like it...14s made my finger tips go numb...
U like the 12.5s better? In terms ou looks? What isnthe rise from the top of the riser cover to the grip height?
 
  #16  
Old 10-08-2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by CRF
U like the 12.5s better? In terms ou looks? What isnthe rise from the top of the riser cover to the grip height?
In terms of looks, its the higher the better for me but...My finger tips go numb if my hands are equal to my shoulder so I had to do these. I think the rise to the top if the bars is an actual 12.5" but will try to measure later. Wild1 has all the specs on their site as well.
 
  #17  
Old 10-08-2013, 02:44 PM
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I am looking at those 502s to put on my 13 rkc. those stock bars suuuckkk.
I was being held back due to having to bleed the abs by digitech and not having the time right now to run up to the dealer to do this. So, by dropping the fork and rerouting the brake line, i don't eben need to un hook any brake lines at all and compromise the abs system.
Looks like i need to get the extend tbw set i am good to go? The clutch does look plenty long!
 
  #18  
Old 10-08-2013, 03:08 PM
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You have to extend the control wires. The tbw is long enough but I don't really trust that pos. I prefer to change to the screaming eagle one...
 
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