Parade fan false reading and Ward Part Werks FCS
#21
Your reading is not errant. The OEM temp sensor in the rear left of the front head that provides info to your PV to read a "core" temperature. Your fan is not cooling "inward", heat tends to move from hottest to coolest, the sensor probe is actually down inside the head, so your fan is not just cooling the sensor, it is accelerating the transfer of heat outward from the head and actually lowering the head material temperature around the sensor. I have a separate instrument to read front and rear "core" head temps, the sensors are inside the bottom intake flange bolt holes, far from any air the fans are moving, and the temp measurements are in alignment with the readings on my power commander console. My fans also blow some air at the OEM temp sensor location but they don't just cool the sensor. I would be happy to sell you a fan system but I won't be mad at you if you decide to do your own thing. Good luck with the project, holler if I can help.
For the engine cooling, I just put a $50 deposit for you FCS fan!! Look up under 'Andy Gunawan' order, He is my friend living in LA and He is helping me with order and shipping to me. Can't wait to have your fan here!
BTW: I ordered black case and stainless grille, I am having second thought and wanting all black now. Should I ask Andy to call you and change the order or we can consider this post as a notice for you?
Thank you very much!
#23
All I will say to this is, Before my Ward fans I seen 320+ and always hit the ETMIS in 12 blocks on a 65 to 70 degree day and bike pinged like crazy, and after fans I do not get over 246 to 258 and do not ping at all.. If they were just coolin the thermostat it would still ping, so go figure!! If you have a 103 motor and you don't have these fans well you care as much as Harley does about yur skoot.. Sorry to make this sound like an ad but it's true my bike in the driveway hit 178 and then I turned fans on and within minutes it was down to 236.. My tuner loved the fans as well and I am always explaining to the people who think they are speakers..lol
I remember all the hype about how the Segway was going to be such a game changer - without hesitation I'd say the FCS is the real deal, a real plus for our motors, and a lot cheaper than a Segway too!
FCS is that good, well worth it.
#24
Hi Jason!! Good to see you are chipping in here! Actually my DIY project took a 180* turn...I was inspired by your oil cooler project and decided to use my 5.2" spall, wire it in reverse to convert it to puller fan, built a DIY fan shroud and see how it goes. I hope you don't mind applying your idea on my SPAL 5.2" fan. If you have any tips or pointer on this build, please let me know. One thing I know for sure, I need to cut off the middle section of the OEM oil cooler mount to clear the bigger fan.
For the engine cooling, I just put a $50 deposit for you FCS fan!! Look up under 'Andy Gunawan' order, He is my friend living in LA and He is helping me with order and shipping to me. Can't wait to have your fan here!
BTW: I ordered black case and stainless grille, I am having second thought and wanting all black now. Should I ask Andy to call you and change the order or we can consider this post as a notice for you?
Thank you very much!
For the engine cooling, I just put a $50 deposit for you FCS fan!! Look up under 'Andy Gunawan' order, He is my friend living in LA and He is helping me with order and shipping to me. Can't wait to have your fan here!
BTW: I ordered black case and stainless grille, I am having second thought and wanting all black now. Should I ask Andy to call you and change the order or we can consider this post as a notice for you?
Thank you very much!
I'm traveling so I made a note to change your screens to black, if you don't see it when I send the balance invoice, don't pay it, drop me an email and I will correct and send a new one.
#25
The spal fans come in pusher and puller configurations, they have a different impeller blade design. Not sure if they are polarity protected and only run one way, but if you can run your pusher "backwards" it will work just probably not as well as the model designed to be a puller. Making that big fan fit was a challenge, when it was done I had about an 1/8" clearance on the front fender, but it cleared. Yes the 5.2" is about 2 1/2 times the displacement as the 4", but I honestly think the 4" will provide all the airflow the heat exchanger can use if it is properly shrouded, and it will be easier to fit in there. Funny thing is after all that work on the oil cooler I don't run it any more. After installing the FCS on my bike, I turned off the oil cooler fan off so I wouldn't get false performance readings for the FCS. After evaluation I decided to set my oil cooler fan to come on at 220F and it rarely ever gets there. Have fun with the project, hit me up if I can help.
I'm traveling so I made a note to change your screens to black, if you don't see it when I send the balance invoice, don't pay it, drop me an email and I will correct and send a new one.
I'm traveling so I made a note to change your screens to black, if you don't see it when I send the balance invoice, don't pay it, drop me an email and I will correct and send a new one.
Last edited by uwiik; 10-02-2013 at 08:56 PM.
#26
Coat your header with good ceramic coat. That will reduce the heat you feel on right leg...it's all in WPW website, read it front to back.
#27
#28
I tried making several different "adapters" to couple the original fan housing to the heat exchanger. I could not gain enough clearance to make it work. After a lot of effort and many attempts I finally thought what about ditching the fan housing and just put the fan and blade into my own billet adapter that attached direct to the heat exchanger. this allowed me bring the fan about 1/64" away from the face of the heat exchanger, which If I remember correctly, gained me about 5/8" clearance over the intermediate adapter technique. I used a Jagg 10 row for my project, the OEM cooler is considerably smaller. I honestly think the 4" fan will be a easier to work with.
#29
I tried making several different "adapters" to couple the original fan housing to the heat exchanger. I could not gain enough clearance to make it work. After a lot of effort and many attempts I finally thought what about ditching the fan housing and just put the fan and blade into my own billet adapter that attached direct to the heat exchanger. this allowed me bring the fan about 1/64" away from the face of the heat exchanger, which If I remember correctly, gained me about 5/8" clearance over the intermediate adapter technique. I used a Jagg 10 row for my project, the OEM cooler is considerably smaller. I honestly think the 4" fan will be a easier to work with.
I will fabricate mount and shroud from aluminum or stainless sheet, we'll see how it turn out. My aesthetic skill really suck, but I can make almost everything works
Do you recommend ditching the thermostat and plugging the bypass hole on the oil filter adapter to force all oil to go through the cooler? I am not going to worry at all about cold weather, it is non existent here.
#30
Ordered the 4" fan already I think my 5.2" will be gathering dust...
I will fabricate mount and shroud from aluminum or stainless sheet, we'll see how it turn out. My aesthetic skill really suck, but I can make almost everything works
Do you recommend ditching the thermostat and plugging the bypass hole on the oil filter adapter to force all oil to go through the cooler? I am not going to worry at all about cold weather, it is non existent here.
I will fabricate mount and shroud from aluminum or stainless sheet, we'll see how it turn out. My aesthetic skill really suck, but I can make almost everything works
Do you recommend ditching the thermostat and plugging the bypass hole on the oil filter adapter to force all oil to go through the cooler? I am not going to worry at all about cold weather, it is non existent here.