I like the 585 torque curve but I also like the 625 cam from S&S. just a bit milder. All around I am happy. If I do make a change I will do it when I check/replace the tappets at 20k.

 

I have seen posts on utube showing both S&S and Jims cranks with pins be ing out of shape and slip on the flywheels. I ask so I can get a grip on what is what and which way I would go if I find myself needing a rebuild.
Regards tbone.

 

It is very uncommon for a S&S crank to sissor but when they do its usaully caused by nitrous or forced induction.
S&S doesn't recommend it being done and they pull your crank warranty because you lose serviceability. But I like the warm fuzzy feeling that my bottom end is solid, every time I twist.

 

Wish I welded mine.

 

I would go with the S&S 124 crate motor - I have it with 585 cams at 10.1- it's a cool running beast that can be ridden just like any other touring bike - S&S does not weld cranks - like someone else said - I have no personal experience with their cranks going bad - some buds have them for years with no know crank failures - and we beat the chit out of them on the street and at the track -- however I do have a close friend with Jims 120 - about three/fours years old who has had major failures and runs hot as dunking donuts coffee. The only thing I would change on my motor is the compression - should be at 10.5 for what I do with it

 

Some good feed back on your cranks and motors I thought that s&s and jims were top of the top draw and I still think they are ok but then I came across Dark horse balance and welded cranks with there forged H section rods ?

 

If you plan on doing wheelies, burtouts, and drag racing. I would recommend H-beam rods. if you plan on riding and having fun with it. the S&S crate as it sits is a proven platform.

 

I have a HD motor built with mostly S & S 124 parts. S & S did in fact weld my crank. Those who insist S & S does not weld cranks may be correct as to crate motors but not specially ordered parts. Mine is the motor someone mentioned that dynoed at 120 TQ at 2500 rpm, 132 TQ at 3000 rpm and 140 TQ at 3500 rpm, with a few left over. Run 585 S & S cams at 10 to 1 compression. The bike runs cooler than my 2009 Road Glide and has many dependable miles on it, although I just did blow the stock tranny after 3 years of abuse. Picking up bike tomorrow with a new Baker. Strongly suggest going with chain conversion. The chain is quieter than a belt, maintenance is a breeze, and no worries getting on it.

 

I agree and disagree, Yes S&S will weld cranks, mine is, 585 cam yes it has a great torque curve but dies of a bit early leaving horsepower on the table, but if it fits your style that's what's important. Chain drive is a thing of the past, the belt systems are plenty strong and will stand up to the abuse. the weakest link on a newer touring bike is the crush drive that mates the wheel to the pulley. You wouldn't have issues with belt unless the thing picks up a rock or something, chain parts wear out along more if you put the miles on.

 

Had me until "chains are quieter"... moving on.

lp