Warranty question: warped rotors?
#41
Hi Guys
Ok for those in warranty , over 8 thou they should replace them. They did on mine after 18months and 3000 miles, thats a 2010 model Roadking. However when the bike was out of warranty the second set warped, hmm expensive here in the uk. Well after a search on this great forum I found some guys had straightened their warped discs using a dial gauge and adjustable spanner and a cloth. Somewhat sceptical but I thought it worth a go. Bought a EBC disc runout gauge and tried it following the instructions of the other guys that had done it. Wow , the solid discs fitted to the majority of recent tourers are actually quite 'soft' and it did not take much to get the run out to well within spec. I went from 12thou on one disc and 6 thou on the other to about 2 thou and 3 respectively. Just takes a bit of time. That was about 6 months and 5000 miles and all is still well.
Apparently some guys have done this check and return to spec during routine servicing a few times, some over a period of years without issue. Easier to just get new discs but .
Just another possible option.
Cheers
Cheers
Ok for those in warranty , over 8 thou they should replace them. They did on mine after 18months and 3000 miles, thats a 2010 model Roadking. However when the bike was out of warranty the second set warped, hmm expensive here in the uk. Well after a search on this great forum I found some guys had straightened their warped discs using a dial gauge and adjustable spanner and a cloth. Somewhat sceptical but I thought it worth a go. Bought a EBC disc runout gauge and tried it following the instructions of the other guys that had done it. Wow , the solid discs fitted to the majority of recent tourers are actually quite 'soft' and it did not take much to get the run out to well within spec. I went from 12thou on one disc and 6 thou on the other to about 2 thou and 3 respectively. Just takes a bit of time. That was about 6 months and 5000 miles and all is still well.
Apparently some guys have done this check and return to spec during routine servicing a few times, some over a period of years without issue. Easier to just get new discs but .
Just another possible option.
Cheers
Cheers
#44
Mike, we understand what your trying to say. But good gosh, you would have to be a brand new rider to ride you brakes like you are talking about. I've been on these for some 34 years and the new front rotors are CRAP. I've got a new 2012 FLHTK and they were bad warped in less than 12k miles. My old E-Glide 2001 had never warped and the front brakes had been changed three times with the 35k miles on it. My pads and rotors were changed under warranty. It depends on which shop you go to. The dealership is going to get paid for the warranty work... Bottom line is HD needs to ensure we get superior rotors from the factory. REMEMBER 90% of your stopping power comes from the front. So we should be using the front as much as we can. I urge everyone out there that has the warped rotors on new bikes to pester the crap out of your dealers till they change them out. If they are giving you a hard time, get on the internet until you get the ride answer from HD. After all HD is the one providing poor quality brake rotors. You can bet your sweet azz they aint Brembo Rotors.
warped rotors can be caused by the rider over heating them...such as long downhill stretches with brakes partly applied ( this is the time to downshift, let the motor do the braking...this keep sthe brakes available should a deer wander out in front or other hazard).
another cause is keeping hot pads applied to the rotors after the bike is stopped. ( if on a slope, let the brakes loose and the bike roll a bit, then reapply...etc)
a pad which does not easily shed heat, will make this worse, such as an organic.
if trying a warranty claim, I'd expect they'd look for signs of rider induced overheating on the rotor, pads, axle grease, bearings and the fluid. and if all that is good then maybe they'd honor the claim
I was working on my truck yesterday...12 years old, 156,000 miles and the factory ceramic brake pads still have plenty of meat...unbelievable.
Mike
another cause is keeping hot pads applied to the rotors after the bike is stopped. ( if on a slope, let the brakes loose and the bike roll a bit, then reapply...etc)
a pad which does not easily shed heat, will make this worse, such as an organic.
if trying a warranty claim, I'd expect they'd look for signs of rider induced overheating on the rotor, pads, axle grease, bearings and the fluid. and if all that is good then maybe they'd honor the claim
I was working on my truck yesterday...12 years old, 156,000 miles and the factory ceramic brake pads still have plenty of meat...unbelievable.
Mike
#45
I have heard this "junk" HD rotors many times. My 10 Ultra with over 30K does not need pads front or rear and no warped rotors. It has been across the Rockies many times and other ranges along with 120 degree heat in Death Valley That is the same across the other 12 bikes that I have. If they were bad in and of themselves I should have had many go wrong as apposed to zero. It just is impossible to not have some of them warped if they are bad to begin with. It defies the odds.
I only use the brakes together and only after getting down in speed below 40 mph. They are not worked hard.
I go with the idea that it is more the riding style and use by the rider and not the rotor. All abusers blame every thing on HD and not the ride it like you stole it **** that they put the bike through.
I only use the brakes together and only after getting down in speed below 40 mph. They are not worked hard.
I go with the idea that it is more the riding style and use by the rider and not the rotor. All abusers blame every thing on HD and not the ride it like you stole it **** that they put the bike through.
#47
No Excuse
warped rotors can be caused by the rider over heating them...such as long downhill stretches with brakes partly applied ( this is the time to downshift, let the motor do the braking...this keep sthe brakes available should a deer wander out in front or other hazard).
another cause is keeping hot pads applied to the rotors after the bike is stopped. ( if on a slope, let the brakes loose and the bike roll a bit, then reapply...etc)
a pad which does not easily shed heat, will make this worse, such as an organic.
if trying a warranty claim, I'd expect they'd look for signs of rider induced overheating on the rotor, pads, axle grease, bearings and the fluid. and if all that is good then maybe they'd honor the claim
I was working on my truck yesterday...12 years old, 156,000 miles and the factory ceramic brake pads still have plenty of meat...unbelievable.
Mike
another cause is keeping hot pads applied to the rotors after the bike is stopped. ( if on a slope, let the brakes loose and the bike roll a bit, then reapply...etc)
a pad which does not easily shed heat, will make this worse, such as an organic.
if trying a warranty claim, I'd expect they'd look for signs of rider induced overheating on the rotor, pads, axle grease, bearings and the fluid. and if all that is good then maybe they'd honor the claim
I was working on my truck yesterday...12 years old, 156,000 miles and the factory ceramic brake pads still have plenty of meat...unbelievable.
Mike
I think someone came up with this "hold the brake theory" and way too many people jumped on the bandwagon.
If I want to hold the brake in at stoplights, Harley will damn well buy me new rotors if that is all it takes to warp them.
#48
Never thought about the hot pads being clamped down on the rotor, food for thought. Thanks
#49
Why don't car rotors warp when you hold the brakes at stop lights? Who shifts into park at a stop light in their car? If car rotors can handle it, why can't Harley rotors?
I think someone came up with this "hold the brake theory" and way too many people jumped on the bandwagon.
If I want to hold the brake in at stoplights, Harley will damn well buy me new rotors if that is all it takes to warp them.
I think someone came up with this "hold the brake theory" and way too many people jumped on the bandwagon.
If I want to hold the brake in at stoplights, Harley will damn well buy me new rotors if that is all it takes to warp them.
Riding the brakes is what creates warping. What he should of said, was the fact that the brakes got that hot after riding is what caused warpage. Not the brakes being applied at a light.
If you've warped a motorcycles rotors, then you need to attend a class on how to ride a motorcycle.
Brake, clutch and alignment wear are directly reflective of the driver/rider. That **** doesn't just wear out. It's induced by the driver.
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