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How difficult to replace cruise control set/resume switch?

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  #11  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:03 PM
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+1 on the wires

Those wires are kind of mashed in the housing, IMO it's more likely that one is rubbed through the insulation than a switch shorted itself. There's one way to find out. If you buy the switch first you might be stuck with it.

There is a plastic split wedge tool to remove the volume and cruise buttons.

Use care whenever taking a part the brake lever assembly, it needs to be slightly depressed when removing to keep from damaging the brake switch, stuffing something like a wire tie in the gap will keep it clear.

The rest is easy to take a part. Assembly is just a bit more tricky than it first looks, you will get to a point where you wonder if you even have the same parts. It's a good idea to take pictures as you disassemble, wire routing is important.
 
  #12  
Old 08-18-2016, 08:19 PM
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Ok My issue a little different did change the bars, however cruise does work the only thing out of every possible scenario is that the Resume and the Accel does not work the Set works and so does the Decel. Hence anything pushed to the right is no fuctional ...any ideas!
 
  #13  
Old 08-18-2016, 10:26 PM
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Have you ridden in the rain lately? Possibly a short caused by some water intrusion...
 
  #14  
Old 08-19-2016, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Rijan
Ok My issue a little different did change the bars, however cruise does work the only thing out of every possible scenario is that the Resume and the Accel does not work the Set works and so does the Decel. Hence anything pushed to the right is no fuctional ...any ideas!

Check your plugs, make sure all the pins are locked in and seated properly.


If one pin didn't lock (assuming of course that you removed the plugs to do the bars) then it will push back when you put the plug back together.


It's easy enough to miss one that didn't lock in place.
 
  #15  
Old 08-19-2016, 09:22 AM
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A corroded switch will give problems but is unlikely to blow fuses. It's far more likely to be a damaged wire somewhere. Those wires go a long way, not just down the handlebars. They'll go into the faring if you have one, past the steering neck, under the tank and into the side cover to the ecm. Before I tore into the switch I'd trace and meter the harness as far as I could.
 
  #16  
Old 08-19-2016, 04:33 PM
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Thanks guys will give it a look over. Wash the bike many times try not to spray within the front fairing exactly because of this issue...Oh well!
 
  #17  
Old 04-06-2020, 06:04 PM
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Default Having the same problem

[hi Dave I was wondering if you resolve the situation I'm having the same problem recently.
CruiseCruise set resume switch is blowing my ignition fuse immediately.
QUOTE=MichiganDave;11601963]My set/resume cruise control switch is blowing my ignition fuse on my 2008 Ultra Classic Electra Glide. I have taken a good look at the service manual and tried to find information on the process here and also on you tube videos and have not really found much information. I assume that the problem is in the switch itself since the fuse only blows when moving it from one side to another. Also if anyone might know why would this switch be hot if the cruise switch was not turned on near the switch cover. When I first blew the fuse I was attempting to engage the cruise control when it killed the bike. The next time it blew the cruise switch at the switch cover was not on and I hit the set/resume switch by accident and it still killed the bike. I would think that if that cruise switch was not on that the switch in the housing would not be hot. Any info on replacing it would be most helpful.[/QUOTE]
 
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